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Roofus Variation
5.11b,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Klement and Habovstak 1993
Utah
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route shares the first bolt with Roofus, then splits off left up the finger crack below Roofus's second bolt. Follow the short finger crack to a final bolt and some tricky finishing moves. Clipping the chains is the crux.
Location
Same start as Roofus; 15 feet right of The Dogcatcher.
Protection
Draws for the two bolts and the chains. Two or so finger-sized cams for the crack between bolts. FYI - it's possible to clip the second bolt of Roofus with a long sling if it makes you feel better.
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Salt Lake City, UT