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Routes in Drone Wall

Beeleave S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bushy Tailed Wood Rat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Finger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drone, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prestidigitator S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Rain Delay S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rattler, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rubber Boa, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Snaked S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stinger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Hermanos S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unknown 5.11d S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
short, shitty and sharp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Isaac Caldiero
Page Views: 821 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jordan Watt on Aug 29, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

An awesome route climbed by Dave Graham and Joe Kinder. The movement is amazing, super boulder. It starts with solid 5.12 climbing then goes into a 10 to 15 foot v9/10 boulder problem then finishes with probably 5.12 climbing for 5 or 6 moves. The rock is good but sharp. You will probably want tape. Supposedly when the first ascent was done the arête wasn't used and it was 13.d or 14.a but now it seems like the arête is used more commonly and seems to be 13.cish. A great route climbed by some legends. Its thought to have only around 10 ascents.

Location

Follow directions to the drone wall. The obvious line on the arête of the wall just left of beeleave. Look for 4 blue metal perma-draws.

Protection

7 or 8 draws with the roof being perma-drawed. You will need 3 or 4 to clip the bottom part of the climb and 2 draws to clip the chains. No permanent clips on the chains.

Photos

you mean just right of beeleave? at least when you're looking at the wall? Oct 10, 2014

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