Type: Trad, Aid, 1200 ft (364 m), 10 pitches, Grade V
FA: June 2014, Kevin DeWeese (solo)
Page Views: 3,642 total · 30/month
Shared By: Kevin DeWeese on Aug 28, 2014
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

New 10 pitch aid route with amazing thin beak pitches and thin flake nailing that will go free eventually. Goes up the right side of the obvious white flake on the face of Lost Brother. Most looseness has been avoided. A nice escape from the normal choss horror show that is the average obscure new route.

Pitch by pitch description tba..

Possible to bivy without a ledge at top of pitch 1, 3, 5 or 6 (both uncomfortable), and pitch 7. ATC Bivy and Yeti Mating Ledge are both stellar bivy ledges.

Full res topo here: https://bit.ly/2AFi9ge

Location Suggest change

Park at the turnout on the left side of Southside Drive 0.9 miles from the El Cap crossover. Walk towards the crag (visible from the parking area) until you start to head uphill. Work your way gradually to the right past multiple large boulders until reaching a rocky wash/gully. Follow gully uphill until the top of the first pitch is visible directly to the left and upward progress can no longer be made up the gully (immediately after climbing over a downed tree). Cut left through the forest following cairns directly to start of first pitch. This approach is a bit longer than heading directly from parking to the toe of the buttress, but is better for carrying loads. ~1 hour with loads


Rap Wayward Son from Yeti Mating Ledge with one 70m or 2 ropes. 

Protection Suggest change

21 Beaks: (7 ea #1-3)
5 Arrows: (2 ea #1-2, 1 ea #3)
4 Angles: (2 ea #1-2)
Nuts: 1 ea
Cams: 2 ea 0.3" - 0.5"
3 ea 0.5" - 2"
2 ea 2" - 4"
optional 5"
Offset Cams: 1 ea
Hooks: 2 ea grappling &cliffhanger
Camhooks: Normal & Wide
16 Rivet Hangers