PRINT: Rock Climb Loco Yokel, Yosemite National Park

Loco Yokel

5.11a, Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3.5 from 21 votes
FA: Barnes, Wuhrmann 2007
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Medlicott Dome > W Face, Left

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Description

This two pitch climb is another great modern route by the FA team, sure to be a future classic as it cleans up with more attention.

Pitch 1: Wander up about 40 feet of easy blocky terrain and fishish with 80 feet of sustained, excellent liebacking right up to the bolted belay. 5.10d ~120 feet.

Pitch 2: Crux face past two bolts near the belay leads to super fun, large golden knobs and five more bolts to another bolted belay. 5.10b ~120 feet.

Rap the route a single 60 meter rappel to the ground with two ropes or two 30 meter rappels with a single 70 meter rope, a single 60 meter rope would be sketchy.

Location

Just left of Super Chicken, starts behind a large pine close to the wall.

Protection

Bolts and gear set of stoppers, set of small cams, one set of cams to 3" (blue camelot), extra thin to finger size. Both pitches end at bolted rap anchors.

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Loco Yokel 5.10d another great route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dylan T
Mammoth Lakes, CA

Awesome climb! I would probably climb it in one long pitch with a 70m rope next time. I noticed the right bolt (the "Yokel" bolt) on the first pitch anchors was flexing a bit when my partner was rappelling, just a heads up. Aug 17, 2020

Kevin Heinrich
South Lake Tahoe

5.11

This has surely broken since the FA. I'd say solid 5.11 now and a bit nasty at that. Definitely best done as one long pitch. The stance is poor atop the first pitch.

Probably 17 draws and a single rack to 2 with nuts to link. Jul 14, 2024