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Free Radical

5.11a/b, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 43 votes
FA: Rad Roberts (2009)
Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 38 > Far Side > Shangri-La

Description

This route has outstanding moves in a great position. Gain the corner, stem while you can, and then commit to the arete and go for it! The route shares an anchor with Guillotine. For added spice try not to stem down low and finish straight up past the last bolt. If you carry 23 quickdraws you can link this route with Hangman in a single 52 meter pitch.

Location

This is the bolted arête right of the giant Guillotine corner. It's possible to belay from the ledge at the base of History Book and lower back to the same spot with a single 60 meter rope.

Protection

9 bolts. It might be best to clip the bolt above the finger crack before starting up this section. Clipping from the crack is strenuous and could lead to a long, clean fall if you blow it, Please use carabiners on the chains to lower and leave them for the next climber.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Finger crack crux.
[Hide Photo] Finger crack crux.
Free Radical is the arete right of the line being climbed here.
[Hide Photo] Free Radical is the arete right of the line being climbed here.
Rob at the chains of Free Radical as seen from the anchors of Crouching Tiger (10.c)
[Hide Photo] Rob at the chains of Free Radical as seen from the anchors of Crouching Tiger (10.c)
Free Radical Topo
[Hide Photo] Free Radical Topo
Bolt after finger crack sequence.
[Hide Photo] Bolt after finger crack sequence.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jonathan Miller
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] One of the best routes at Exit 38! Sustained, technical, and burly with a couple good rests. Really exposed and airy, its exhilarating and everything a sports climb should be! Get out and try it! May 12, 2019
Igor S
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Finger crack section was a crux for me. Great views! Jun 16, 2019
Rad Roberts
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] I checked and the rock fall mentioned is from a roof 6 feet left of the entry to Guillotine and Free Radical. No routes were damaged. Climb on! Jul 5, 2019
Daniel Chode Rider
Truck, Wenatchee
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Best 11a (or 11b) in the exits. Jul 27, 2021
[Hide Comment] Dang Rad, brings back memories!! Mar 20, 2024
Lee Goldman
Seattle, WA
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Best to belay from way below the first bolt on smallish dirt platform before the scramble up to the first bolt. You can throw a .2/.3 into the crack on the ground for a more comfortable and safer standing belay but it isn't necessary. A 60m rope will get your climber back to this belay area no problem with some room to spare. Jun 15, 2024
Lee Goldman
Seattle, WA
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] The first move through the overhanging notch takes a long time to dry out after the rainy season. Even if it's wet, the holds pulling past the first bolt are juggy and then the stemming afterwards is secure and dry and provides easy opportunity to dry your feet off before transitioning into the face climbing. Jun 15, 2024