PRINT: Rock Climb East Face, Center Crack, Yosemite National Park

East Face, Center Crack

5.11b, Trad, Alpine, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Cathedral Range > Eichorn Pinnacle

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Description

The center crack on the east face is the obvious gnarly looking offwidth going up the center of the pinnacle as visible from Cathedral Peak.

Belay on a small 2x2' shelf a few feet below (on the south side) of the saddle at the base of the pinnacle. There are several gear options for a solid belay anchor. Step out off the ledge with a lot of air suddenly below your heels and begin to traverse up and left aiming for the short hand crack roof. Once at the small roof, continue straight up that crack all the way to the summit. The entire route overhangs about 8 feet from the base.

The crack gradually widens from 1" at the small roof to 7" at the very top. The hand and fist jams are solid and are deep in the flaring slot, while awkward, it provides good rests. The offwidth section is also rounded over and slightly flaring making it tough to get deep enough for solid arm bars, and slightly too flared for good chicken wings, making it quite relentless between rest stances. Irregularities in the width of the upper half of the offwidth make pushing a cam the whole way impractical, so I recommend two #6 cams.

Does anyone have any information on any route history?

Protection

One #1 metolius for the start, then a single set of cams from #.5-6, and doubles of #2, 3, 4, 6.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing amidst the wildfire smoke in July 2018

What a great lead! Why is this not more popular??

Leading the crux section of the offwidth. Blending in with an orange shirt.

Center crack on the East Face of Eichorn Pinnacle

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan Wisheropp

5.11b

I tried to lead this several years ago and chickened out when the wind was howling so hard we couldn't keep the rope from blowing me off, and ended up doing the shorter crack to the right (a great route). I remember a photo of a guy soloing it naked.

I don't know if this route has much of a history with being led, it did not appear very traveled; there were lots of loose flakes and a few sections of decomposing granite layers that I ended up having to pull or scrape off during my ascent that definitely added to the adventure. This is easily one of the most aesthetics lines in Tuolumine, but it makes you work; both on the climb and the approach (we climbed SE Buttress with a backpack of offwidth gear).

The offwidth flares just so your knee only gets a little bit of purchase in the actual crack the chicken wings and arm bars are all flaring and delicate. the face holds on the outside are small, infrequent, and delicate (breakable). Two #6 cams are needed after the horizontal. Aug 26, 2014

Sam F
Arizona

Great little climb in a spectacular setting. Is there a more photographed offwidth anywhere else in the world? Thanks for the beta and the hype Evan, without this write up I probably wouldn’t have considered this one.

I thought Evan's rack description was pretty spot on, but I would suggest bringing extra cams in the 1-3 BD sizes for the belay anchor along with Evan’s lead rack. Also, I didn’t find the #5 necessary as the crack widens from #4 to #6 at the horizontal. Or just bring all of the gear, your legs could use the training anyways :). Now go get on it! Jul 2, 2024