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Routes in Eichorn Pinnacle

East Face, Center Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Pillar Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,237 total, 31/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Aug 26, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The center crack on the east face is the obvious gnarly looking offwidth going up the center of the pinnacle as visible from Cathedral Peak.

Belay on a small 2x2' shelf a few feet below (on the south side) of the saddle at the base of the pinnacle. There are several gear options for a solid belay anchor. Step out off the ledge with a lot of air suddenly below your heels and begin to traverse up and left aiming for the short hand crack roof. Once at the small roof, continue straight up that crack all the way to the summit. The entire route overhangs about 8 feet from the base.

The crack gradually widens from 1" at the small roof to 7" at the very top. The hand and fist jams are solid and are deep in the flaring slot, while awkward, it provides good rests. The offwidth section is also rounded over and slightly flaring making it tough to get deep enough for solid arm bars, and slightly too flared for good chicken wings, making it quite relentless between rest stances. Irregularities in the width of the upper half of the offwidth make pushing a cam the whole way impractical, so I recommend two #6 cams.

Does anyone have any information on any route history?

Protection

One #1 metolius for the start, then a single set of cams from #.5-6, and doubles of #2, 3, 4, 6.

Photos

amockalypsenow
San Diego
amockalypsenow   San Diego
Sweet route contribution Evan! Oct 2, 2017
I tried to lead this several years ago and chickened out when the wind was howling so hard we couldn't keep the rope from blowing me off, and ended up doing the shorter crack to the right (a great route). I remember a photo of a guy soloing it naked.

I don't know if this route has much of a history with being led, it did not appear very traveled; there were lots of loose flakes and a few sections of decomposing granite layers that I ended up having to pull or scrape off during my ascent that definitely added to the adventure. This is easily one of the most aesthetics lines in Tuolumine, but it makes you work; both on the climb and the approach (we climbed SE Buttress with a backpack of offwidth gear).

The offwidth flares just so your knee only gets a little bit of purchase in the actual crack the chicken wings and arm bars are all flaring and delicate. the face holds on the outside are small, infrequent, and delicate (breakable). Two #6 cams are needed after the horizontal. Aug 26, 2014