Type: Trad, Alpine, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,119 total · 26/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Aug 26, 2014
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The center crack on the east face is the obvious gnarly looking offwidth going up the center of the pinnacle as visible from Cathedral Peak.

Belay on a small 2x2' shelf a few feet below (on the south side) of the saddle at the base of the pinnacle. There are several gear options for a solid belay anchor. Step out off the ledge with a lot of air suddenly below your heels and begin to traverse up and left aiming for the short hand crack roof. Once at the small roof, continue straight up that crack all the way to the summit. The entire route overhangs about 8 feet from the base.

The crack gradually widens from 1" at the small roof to 7" at the very top. The hand and fist jams are solid and are deep in the flaring slot, while awkward, it provides good rests. The offwidth section is also rounded over and slightly flaring making it tough to get deep enough for solid arm bars, and slightly too flared for good chicken wings, making it quite relentless between rest stances. Irregularities in the width of the upper half of the offwidth make pushing a cam the whole way impractical, so I recommend two #6 cams.

Does anyone have any information on any route history?

Protection Suggest change

One #1 metolius for the start, then a single set of cams from #.5-6, and doubles of #2, 3, 4, 6.

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