Type: Trad, 98 ft (30 m)
FA: Simon Tooley, J. Beekman
Page Views: 1,279 total · 14/month
Shared By: Deanna Puttonen on Aug 25, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Camping and COVID-19 - Guidelines Details

Description

The gaping crack. The crux is first getting into the crack - a bolt protects here. The unmistakable gaping wide crack at Bughouse Heights. A low-angle, shallow crack with marginal protection grants access to a comfortable ledge below the offwidth. Yes, it really goes at 5.10-.

Location

It is pretty hard to miss the large off-width crack at Bughouse Heights. It's the humongous crack on the trail up to pixie corner.

Protection

Contrary to the guidebook description, this route is x-rated without at least one #6 and one #5 cam. The initial crack will take a 1" piece and something small (#2 c3). A bolt protects the first move into the squeeze. From here the crack runs from tipped-out #6 to #4. It is possible to place a #.75 to protect the final moves. Bolts with rap rings at the top

Photos