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Routes in Bughouse Heights

Fata Morgana T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy's Galore S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Salamander T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skullduggery T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sting in the Tail T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tail Wind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 98 ft
FA: Simon Tooley, J. Beekman
Page Views: 436 total · 11/month
Shared By: Deanna Puttonen on Aug 25, 2014 with updates
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details


The gaping crack. The crux is first getting into the crack - a bolt protects here. The unmistakable gaping wide crack at Bughouse Heights. A low-angle, shallow crack with marginal protection grants access to a comfortable ledge below the offwidth. Yes, it really goes at 5.10-.


It is pretty hard to miss the large off-width crack at Bughouse Heights. It's the humongous crack on the trail up to pixie corner.


Contrary to the guidebook description, this route is x-rated without at least one #6 and one #5 cam. The initial crack will take a 1" piece and something small (#2 c3). A bolt protects the first move into the squeeze. From here the crack runs from tipped-out #6 to #4. It is possible to place a #.75 to protect the final moves. Bolts with rap rings at the top


Ryan Lynne  
I found the crux to be the start of the off width after you clip the bolt. A #6 Camalot is just big enough for the start of the off width. If you are not comfortable with pushing the #6 up as you go, you may want a second #6.

The top of the crack where it narrows is really amazing and much easier. Mar 5, 2016
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
This crack is rad, but suggesting a standard rack puts you in a no-fall zone through quite a bit of strenuous climbing. Only fifteen feet up from the bolt can you even place a #5, and if you blew it you'd be having a bad day.

If you climb this without a #6 or Valley Giant I expect rope is only a decoration for you, or you think your ankles are in too few pieces.

Dope route though. Jul 8, 2015