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Routes in Bughouse Heights

Fata Morgana T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy's Galore S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Salamander T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skullduggery T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sting in the Tail T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tail Wind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 98 ft
FA: Simon Tooley, J. Beekman
Page Views: 436 total · 11/month
Shared By: Deanna Puttonen on Aug 25, 2014 with updates
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

The gaping crack. The crux is first getting into the crack - a bolt protects here. The unmistakable gaping wide crack at Bughouse Heights. A low-angle, shallow crack with marginal protection grants access to a comfortable ledge below the offwidth. Yes, it really goes at 5.10-.

Location

It is pretty hard to miss the large off-width crack at Bughouse Heights. It's the humongous crack on the trail up to pixie corner.

Protection

Contrary to the guidebook description, this route is x-rated without at least one #6 and one #5 cam. The initial crack will take a 1" piece and something small (#2 c3). A bolt protects the first move into the squeeze. From here the crack runs from tipped-out #6 to #4. It is possible to place a #.75 to protect the final moves. Bolts with rap rings at the top

Photos

Ryan Lynne  
 
I found the crux to be the start of the off width after you clip the bolt. A #6 Camalot is just big enough for the start of the off width. If you are not comfortable with pushing the #6 up as you go, you may want a second #6.

The top of the crack where it narrows is really amazing and much easier. Mar 5, 2016
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
This crack is rad, but suggesting a standard rack puts you in a no-fall zone through quite a bit of strenuous climbing. Only fifteen feet up from the bolt can you even place a #5, and if you blew it you'd be having a bad day.

If you climb this without a #6 or Valley Giant I expect rope is only a decoration for you, or you think your ankles are in too few pieces.

Dope route though. Jul 8, 2015