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West Face of Tucapit
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Tucupit
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Moped Man T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Morphology T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pain Chamber T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Skeleton Key, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tucupit nova T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tucupit occidentalis T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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West Face of Tucapit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | FA: Bill March and Bill Forrest, June 1981 FFA: Karl Kvashay and Ethan Newman |
| Page Views: | 1,931 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | EJN on Aug 24, 2014 |
| Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 
Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Description
High quality route climbed by the Bills in '81. The route follows one crack system from bottom to top of the cliff. The rock is good and featured, the line is aesthetic, and the drilled pins still look pretty good. Expect a little bit of everything, although there's a decent bit of chimney climbing. Fun, physical climbing throughout the route.
Although we found a small stash of gear at the base of the route, the climb looked essentially untouched from the FA. The tat on the rap stations looked quite old; it was completely bleached and core-shot from the wind scouring it. We also found a #7 Forrest Teton at the base, apparently left by the FA team. There is an old, cryptic topo at the visitor center. I've provided a new one here that hopefully helps without giving too much away. Have fun!
Original AAJ Report
Although we found a small stash of gear at the base of the route, the climb looked essentially untouched from the FA. The tat on the rap stations looked quite old; it was completely bleached and core-shot from the wind scouring it. We also found a #7 Forrest Teton at the base, apparently left by the FA team. There is an old, cryptic topo at the visitor center. I've provided a new one here that hopefully helps without giving too much away. Have fun!
Original AAJ Report
Location
Park at and hike up the trail for the Middle fork of Taylor Creek. At the old cabin, head off trail towards the North Fork of Taylor Creek. Follow the wash until you're past the initial rock buttress that splits the creek forks. From here, you should be able to see the route through the trees. The route faces west on a narrow wall on the north side of Tucapit. Bushwhack up the hill to access the slickrock bowl that drains northwest below the route. The route is an obvious crack that splits the entire face, and becomes a chimney in lighter rock about halfway up. The approach should take an hour or so.
Descent: Rap the route. Take some tat.
Descent: Rap the route. Take some tat.
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