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Sweet Nothings

5.7, Trad,  Avg: 2.6 from 21 votes
FA: Harper and Edwards, 2005
Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Maze (aka Amaze-ing)
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details
Access Issue: Road 700B is closed to vehicular traffic Details

Description

Sweet Nothings ascends a left-leaning hand crack (about 5.6) to a slabby arete. The arete is easier if you stem out to the wall behind. There is a bolted anchor.

Location

It is inside Corridor 1.

Protection

Mostly hand sized pieces (#0.75 to 2) and a couple of small wires for the section before the arete.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The perfect hands crack.
[Hide Photo] The perfect hands crack.
Fun crack on Sweet Nothings.
[Hide Photo] Fun crack on Sweet Nothings.
Chimney topout.
[Hide Photo] Chimney topout.
Kyle, on the arete while cleaning the route!
[Hide Photo] Kyle, on the arete while cleaning the route!
Halfway up the crack.
[Hide Photo] Halfway up the crack.
A view of the start of the route.
[Hide Photo] A view of the start of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Excellent but short handcrack. The last half of this route is unprotected and possibly warrants an R rating. Falling from just before the anchors will put you out of sight 30 feet down into a chasm. Oct 19, 2015
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I opted to just chimney the last section, rather than climb the unprotected arete! Feb 22, 2016
K Gustafson
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] The arete can be protected with micronuts. You can take your sweet time placing them too, because you will be standing on a small ledge and leaning against the slabby arete. Definitely the way to finish this line. Jul 25, 2016
Zach Keeney
Rapid City, SD
[Hide Comment] I also chose to do the chimney (awesome finish). There is zero protection, but the feet are good, and the chimney is no harder than 5.6. Super adventurous, great route! Jun 4, 2017
Wilburn
Boise, ID
 
[Hide Comment] The chimney is a very fun way to end this climb. Jun 4, 2017
Evan Wisheropp
  5.6 R
[Hide Comment] Fun, perfect, hand crack. The path of least resistance up top is the chimney, which is quite enjoyable. There is no protection in the chimney, which I'd say is the "hardest" part of the route, so it warrants an R rating. Even though the chimney is runout and a slip would be devastating, it's not anything to worry about. Aug 3, 2017
proto G
Falmouth (MA)
 
[Hide Comment] The arete finish is great. One or two steepish moves on good crystals to a slaby topout. It's protected by good small nuts (RPs would be best) that you can place from the stance before launching up. It's definitely harder than the crack bellow. The book says 5.9 FWIW. Sep 4, 2019