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Routes in Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall

Type: Trad, Mixed, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: ??
Page Views: 193 total, 5/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Aug 21, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is located on the Windy Wall. The easiest way to reach the Windy Wall is to walk from the top of Lincoln Falls up towards the toe of the rock glacier and then traverse high over to the base of the wall. Follow 3rd class terrain along the base of the cliff until you find anchor bolts, this is Heche En Gringolandia.

Pitch 1: M3-4, 200 feet. To gain the main Panty Peeler gully, ascend either the first part of Heche En Gringo Landia, M4, Sheep Skin Protection, M4 PG-13, or climb to the right of the small tree to gain access. Belay at a two bolt anchor under a sheltered roof.

Pith 2: M3, 100 feet. Climb left or right from the anchor and ascend up the corner to a two bolt anchor on the right on a good ledge.

Descent: rappel or walk off to the south.

Protection

SR, a few pitons are nice. There are bolted anchors.

Photos

Taylor-B.
Valdez, AK
 
Taylor-B.   Valdez, AK
 
Over the years, I made numerous forays to the Windy Wall, and every time I was scared silly do to the abundance of loose rocks and perched death blocks everywhere. I peeled a lot of choss off to get to the goods, hence the name Panty Peeler;) Now it climbs well and is an enjoyable romp. Aug 25, 2014