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South Buttress Hodini

5.11d, Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 11 pitches, Grade V,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Greg Collins, Hans Johnstone
Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Mt Moran

Description

Clean, black streaked corners 25m right of South Buttress Right.

Excellent, even classic **** as a more difficult start to SBR, but run out climbing keep the top from being recommended...

Location

Clean, black streaked corners right of S. Butt Right.

Same access pitch: but someone needs to document a steep start alternative through lower roofs, right of S.B. Wanderer and left of Black Fin. (I climbed one, once when guiding ‘Right’ but can’t rember it.(5.10**?))

Protection

2 bolts to a "indian creek" corner, that needs 2 sets fingers/hand size cams. Next pitch reqires a couple of cams before 6 hand drilled bolts in a shallow, closed, right facing corner...

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

South Buttress, Mt. Moran: Left to right: Red = Direct South Buttress. Green= Prow. <br> Yellow= Central <br> Black= Wanderer <br> Burgundy=South Buttress Houdini. Dark Blue South Buttress Right. Light Blue= Whirl of Hate. White= 3rd class ledge approach.
[Hide Photo] South Buttress, Mt. Moran: Left to right: Red = Direct South Buttress. Green= Prow. Yellow= Central Black= Wanderer Burgundy=South Buttress Houdini. Dark Blue South Buttress Right. Light Blue=…