All Locations > Montana > Blodgett Canyon > Flathead Buttress

Rain Dance

Name: Rain Dance
Rating: 3.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A4-

Routes in Flathead Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Fresh Aire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
	My Mom's Burnt Cat Memorial T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1
	My Moms Muscle Shirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4-
	tango to the top T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
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Type:	Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, Grade V
FA:	June 1987, Russ Johnson and Glen Cambron
Page Views:	696 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Russell Johnson on Aug 21, 2014
Admins:	grk10vq

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Description

This route ascends the left side of the south face of Flathead Peak. As originally done the route had a lot of aid climbing (perhaps some of that has gone free since). A single bolt (hand-drilled 1/4") was placed on the first ascent (on pitch 2). Apparently a subsequent party took a whipper on this bolt, so its present condition is unknown.

After five pitches there is a very nice bivy ledge. After 8 pitches, the route joins Fresh Aire (at a bolt). From there, it is one more pitch to the top.

I have uploaded a topo of the route and a photograph (the red dots are the belay stances we used on the first ascent).

Protection

Wide range of pro. See bottom right corner of the topo for rack information. That represents what was used for the first ascent. More "clean" aid placements could certainly be used now.