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Routes in Flathead Buttress

Fresh Aire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
My Mom's Burnt Cat Memorial T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1
My Moms Muscle Shirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4-
tango to the top T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, Grade V
FA: June 1987, Russ Johnson and Glen Cambron
Page Views: 616 total, 16/month
Shared By: Russell Johnson on Aug 21, 2014
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route ascends the left side of the south face of Flathead Peak. As originally done the route had a lot of aid climbing (perhaps some of that has gone free since). A single bolt (hand-drilled 1/4") was placed on the first ascent (on pitch 2). Apparently a subsequent party took a whipper on this bolt, so its present condition is unknown.

After five pitches there is a very nice bivy ledge. After 8 pitches, the route joins Fresh Aire (at a bolt). From there, it is one more pitch to the top.

I have uploaded a topo of the route and a photograph (the red dots are the belay stances we used on the first ascent).

Protection

Wide range of pro. See bottom right corner of the topo for rack information. That represents what was used for the first ascent. More "clean" aid placements could certainly be used now.

Photos

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