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Routes in Eagle's Nest

Eagle's Nest Powell Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 5000 ft, Grade II
FA: Curt Krieser, Howard Friedman, 1943
Page Views: 751 total, 19/month
Shared By: Ryan Marsters on Aug 20, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is typical Gore. Scramble along top at 3rd to 5.easy, depending on route-choice, over and around fun gendarmes, slabs, and blocky ridge. As is usual in the Gore, there are bypasses available on the West side.

The crux is near the saddle - a slabby start to right facing dihedral just off the West side of the ridge. It is airy 5.3/5.4 or so for 40 feet. Go EN->Powell to upclimb.

The traverse can be completed via lower West side ledges at Class 3/4.

Descend Powell via the South slopes (class 2) to Kneeknocker Pass (regain required), the South ridge (scramble), or via the South slopes and then cutting over the South Ridge (Class 3 briefly).


I recommend daytripping from Piney and going over the pass between the Corners and Powell to gain the West Ridge up Eagle's Nest. This saves time setting up a shuttle involving the Cataract TH.


Small alpine rack. Perhaps a rope to belay a second. Terrain belays and pro options abound.