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Routes in Pyramid Peak

Megamidal Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Northeast Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13
Northwest Ridge
Pyramidal Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 7300 ft, Grade III
FA: variations by Oehrli, 1974
Page Views: 1,343 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ryan Marsters on Aug 20, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Megamidal Traverse is scenic and stunning with red and gold hues over some of the best mountaineer's mountains Colorado has to offer. This route has slowly gained traction and popularity among experienced peak scramblers, even if they don't know how to spell it.


Start at Maroon Lake TH and hike to W. Maroon Pass. Expect some avy debris in early summer and wet trails.

The route: expect constant route-finding and scrambling. Try to stay near the ridge where possible as the rest is junk. Some snow might make this a whole lot more enjoyable.

Segment A: W. Maroon Pass to 13,130 (brief Class 3 notches).

Segment B: 13,130 to 13,180 B (brief Class 4).

Segment C: 13,180 B to 13,631 (5.easy. Access the notch via a right side ledge and curl around to just above the saddle. Reachy DC. BAIL SPOT. Escape the notch either left or right and up. A second mini-notch is best passed on the left).

Segment D: 13,631 to Lightning Pyramid (a few 5.easy sections. Chimney and an exposed arete move stick out).

Segment E (start of Pyramidal Traverse): Lightning Pyramid to Thunder Pyramid (exposed 4th Class). Bail spot down left and then over to the White Gully.

Segment F: Thunder Pyramid to Pyramid (5.4, route-finding and climbing crux. Descend to the saddle, weave through gendarmes to another saddle. Describing the route-finding is nearly impossible. Look for ledges left to take you to the crux chimneys on the right side of the ridge. Cruise for awhile, brief Class 4 notch and 5.easy summit block).

Descent: see the NE Ridge description. It is easier to follow going down than up and keep it Class 3. If on route, there is only a single move of 4th Class descender's left side of the green gully.

~16 miles/7300' gain.



This is the ridgeline opposite The Bells.


There is not much in the way of lead protection. Terrain and body belays are useful for bringing up a second, watching for loose rock.


Ryan Marsters
Ryan Marsters  
Swiss Mountain Guide Willy Oehrli did East Maroon Pass (near Precarious) to Pyramid, 1974. Earl Voight and Dave Anschicks also did it in 1980. Mar 4, 2018

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