Type: Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft, 15 pitches, Grade V
FA: Established by Stuart Richie, Mark Rolofson, and Annie Whitehouse. FFA Paul Piana, Todd Skinner, Tim Toula
Page Views: 6,910 total · 132/month
Shared By: j wharton on Aug 19, 2014
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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This is one of the best backcountry free climbs I've done. The climbing is incredibly varied, and generally very clean for such a remote, seldom traveled route. Some sections of the route feel like etched marble! Although not particularly sustained there is a fair bit of 5.11 climbing and two short stretches of 12a. Despite being short, I found the thin bolted traverse pitch to be the crux. The stemming corner up high is also tricky, but not as hard as it first appears. The rock and climbing on this pitch in particular is amazing. The old rusty bolts, and at least one piton were updated in August 2014. Big shout out to Hermes Lynn and Kate Rutherford for this great community service.

There is a quality written description in Kelsey's guide, and a topo can be found in Todd Skinner's "Big Walls!" book.

You can see some nice Rowell pics from the the FFA here:


History: Some controversy surrounds the FFA. The Colorado team put the bolts in and established the free variations, but failed to free the 12a stemming corner due to rain. The Wyoming contingent came in a few weeks later and made a continuous free ascent. I suspect Whit Magro and I did the first one day onsight free ascent in August 2013 in 10-ish hours. This may have even been the second free ascent?! Kate Rutherford and Gilbert Chase did the first all female free ascent in August 2014. I would guess the route has been climbed a dozen times at 5.11 C1. I would not recommend taking bivy gear on this route, as nothing looks very comfortable until high on the wall.


Begins just beyond the nose of Hooker, climbing the northwestern aspect of the the wall.


Offset Rps, Stoppers, and double set from tiny to hands, with a single #3 and #4


LoganJamison Jamison
Salt Lake City, UT
LoganJamison Jamison   Salt Lake City, UT
This route partially follows the original aid route that was the first ascent of Hooker's North Face, put up by Royal Robbins and company in 1964. First grade VI outside the Valley? Not sure. Joey Lambert and I freed this line in 2012. Sure didn't seem like it got much traffic, but boy was it good. And cold. And windy. Aug 10, 2015
Multiple sections of R rated climbing on this route in the 5.9ish range (face). The direct start begins just right of an obvious jagged roof about 8 feet off the ground. The obvious final corner to Der Major is RIGHT facing (topo is wrong) and is correctly identified by the presence of moss. Aug 21, 2018