Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Gandalf

5.8, Trad, 330 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.2 from 11 votes
FA: Meyer, Storvik, Tollefsen 1978
International > Europe > Norway > Lofoten > Gandalf Wall

Description

Pitch 1 (5.8 40m) - Climb the groove and a short slab to a nice ledge. Watch out for loose rock when setting up an anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.7 35m) - Traverse right and climb an overhang on good holds. One can either climb up sooner (harder) or further right (easier). Do not follow the tempting crack, but rather cross the slab left around the arete and climb easy finger cracks to the "Eagle's Nest".

Pitch 3 (25m) - A delicate step right around the corner leads to easy cracks to the top. Alternately go straight through the lip above the belay (10c?).

Location

Behind a tree and large boulder at the right side of the cliff

Protection

Standard rack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

nd chu
  5.8
[Hide Comment] All of the climbs on this cliff can be done in 2 pitches, linking the final pitches. Jul 23, 2018