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Routes in Mount Gimli

Another Dimension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
East Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
North Face Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rumble in the Jungle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sailor Jerry T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Slave to Gravity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Slave to Gravity (Direct Start) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
South Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Jam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1 PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: JT Croston and Shawn Tasker
Page Views: 409 total · 9/month
Shared By: JT Croston on Aug 17, 2014
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Space Jam: Jt Croston and Shawn Tasker July 2014
5.11d/5.12a A1 or 5.12? This is a sustained, slightly overhanging climb and you will need a wide variety of climbing styles along with a healthy dose of stamina. Look forward to open hand layaways and some jamming that would make Mr. Hatfield proud. We bailed on the seventh pitch from too much aiding and a band of shitty rock.
Pitch 1: 5.6, 25 m Climb the ramp trending right to a Belay Station.
Pitch 2: 5.11, 30 m Climb a face past three bolts to a crack that leads to a chimney with a belay ledge on top.
Pitch 3: 5.11+ sustained, (crux) 30 m Traverse left for 12m from the belay past a bolt to gain a finger to hand crack. Climb the crack using jams and layaways to a belay station.
Pitch 4: 5.11+ 20 m, continue up the crack and over a small lip to some ledges and a belay station above.
Pitch 5: 5.11 30 m, Step right off the belay and climb discontinuous cracks to small roof and step left to a pin. From there continue up and left left to a bolt gaining a prominent crack system just below a belay ledge.
Pitch 6: 5.11+ A1(5.12?) From the belay ledge continue up the crack system to a series of minor roofs. As gear becomes less desirable, a pin will get you through a crux to a belay station above (Note: Three bolts are above the station for any one trying to finish the line).
Be mindful to back clip while repelling to ensure stations are reachable. Rapping on double 60 m ropes from the third rap station will get you to a small ledge - lower off slung rock. Rap stations are bolts, hangers, tat, and biners (bring tat for rap)

Location

left of Space Buttress...look for obvious vertical crack on overhanging wall near the col into Mulvey Basin

Protection

Double BD's from #0.2 to #3 and one #4. One set of nuts

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