Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Pete DeLannoy and Cindy Tolle 6/83
Page Views: 928 total · 15/month
Shared By: Carson Eisenbeisz on Aug 16, 2014 with improvements by Robert Hall
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

17 Opinions

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A fun climb with a great summit view. Clip the first bolt at ground level before traversing to the right over a short dropoff. Follow the bolt line up to a nice resting ledge before finishing up at the chains. Appropriately named because of the teeth like quartz crystals the whole way up which provide plenty of great hand and foot holds. These same "teeth" create lots of rope drag, so extending the quickdraws with slings may be beneficial.


Locate the gully on the southwest edge of the Ephel Dauth mass. Route begins on the right side at the beginning of the gully near the base of the Guardian. The first bolt is clearly visible at about waist level near a tall tree. The second bolt is above a small pine tree growing out of the rocks. Rap down into the gully to the west with 1 60 M rope.

In hiking to this climb, you have to pass "Morannon" (the trail is well-worn to here, worn flat area at base) and then continue up over the minor height-of-land and then down a few feet to the base.


9 bolts + anchor chains