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Routes in THE GUARDIAN

Guardian Face S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guardian, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Trail of Teeth S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Pete DeLannoy and Cindy Tolle 6/83
Page Views: 671 total · 16/month
Shared By: Carson Eisenbeisz on Aug 16, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A fun climb with a great summit view. Clip the first bolt at ground level before traversing to the right over a short dropoff. Follow the bolt line up to a nice resting ledge before finishing up at the chains. Appropriately named because of the teeth like quartz crystals the whole way up which provide plenty of great hand and foot holds. These same "teeth" create lots of rope drag, so extending the quickdraws with slings may be beneficial.

Location

Locate the gully on the southwest edge of the Ephel Dauth mass. Route begins on the right side at the beginning of the gully near the base of the Guardian. The first bolt is clearly visible at about waist level near a tall tree. The second bolt is above a small pine tree growing out of the rocks. Rap down into the gully to the west with 1 60 M rope.

Protection

9 bolts + anchor chains

Photos

Ryan Emery
Black Hills, SD
 
Ryan Emery   Black Hills, SD
 
Also, any purpose for the extra hangers on top? I believe I counted four extra. Apr 26, 2016
Ryan Emery
Black Hills, SD
 
Ryan Emery   Black Hills, SD
 
The guardian face can be top roped well. The guardian can also be top roped well with a slight swing! Two good routes to test yourself on though! I really liked the crack. Mar 15, 2016
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.4
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.4
This route is very easy to identify. Walk towards Middle Earth and hang a left at Duet (very tall obvious spire in the picture). Walk along the base of the wall past 2 or 3 bolted routes. You should scramble up a few feet between the wall and a boulder. There is a bolt at ground level to protect the traverse onto the route. Jun 14, 2015
Carson Eisenbeisz
Pierre, SD
 
Carson Eisenbeisz   Pierre, SD
 
Thanks Wilson! Nov 21, 2014
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.4
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.4
FA Pete DeLannoy and Cindy Tolle 6/83 Aug 16, 2014