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Ruby Ridge

5.10+, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 37 votes
FA: Dave Griffith, Dave Hatchett
California > Lake Tahoe > W Shore > Eagle Creek Canyon > Mayhem Cove > Right Side

Description

This climb is the rightmost of four 5.10's on the right-hand section of Mayhem Cove. The start is located where an alternate trail leads down away from the wall into the talus below.

The climbing begins with a crack feature and the first crux is encountered near the first bolt. Surmount a steep bulge with great holds, and then the angle of route backs off for a few bolts. The 2nd crux is a height dependent move to get over a roof. Vertically challenged folks may also have a hard time clipping the bolt that protects this move. Probably .10b if you're 6' 5", and .10d if you're 5' 5"

Protection

~ 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with mussy hooks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Three 5.10s (as best I can guess). If you know the names and ratings of these routes please share.
[Hide Photo] The Three 5.10s (as best I can guess). If you know the names and ratings of these routes please share.
rapping the route
[Hide Photo] rapping the route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Curry
[Hide Comment] We always called this one .10d. I've never heard a name for it, though. It's helpful to bring a long draw for one of the bolts on the low-angle middle section to alleviate drag. Aug 19, 2014
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Agreed about the long draw Ryan, specifically I thought it most useful on the last bolt on the slab before the roof. Aug 19, 2014
chrisbe Bell
Reno, Nevada
[Hide Comment] I felt 10c is a fair rating for this one. I'm 5'9 and the upper crux uses just about all my reach. Sep 8, 2014
KayJ
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] The Description on MP sounds like the route called Cubic Zarconia (10.B) in SuperTopo and I was with a local who called it that as well. But seemed stiff for a 10.B/C (but I am only 5.3). First difficult crux off the deck before you reach the first bolt and then the climbing easies up until the roof bulge. Begin to the right and follow easy rock up and then traverse left if you want to skip the first bolt/crux. Getting to the two bolts to protect the second crux was very difficult for me but easier for my tall partner. Seems like this could be a mixed route because I wish I had some gear to place up there as it follows a crack system part of the way. Aug 24, 2015
the rock bobster
New London, WI
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] Didn't think pulling the roof was harder than 10d, I wouldn't say I'm exceedingly tall. Maybe a little heady, but you can clip the high bolt to make the fall safe. Loved that part in particular. Jul 16, 2019
Moss Halladay
Truckee, CA
[Hide Comment] Dave called this route Ruby Ridge, Cubic Zarconia is the route directly to the left of Diamond to clarify any route confusion. Jun 20, 2023