Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Griffith, Dave Hatchett?
Page Views: 872 total · 17/month
Shared By: Paul Zander on Aug 14, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is the rightmost of three 5.10's on the right-hand section of Mayhem Cove. The start is located where an alternate trail leads down away from the wall into the talus below.

The climbing begins with a crack feature and the first crux is encountered near the first bolt. Surmount a steep bulge with great holds, and then the angle of route backs off for a few bolts. The 2nd crux is a height dependent move to get over a roof. Vertically challenged folks may also have a hard time clipping the bolt that protects this move. Probably .10b if you're 6' 5", and .10d if you're 5' 5"

Protection

Bolts. Maybe 10? Two bolt rap anchor, no chains.

Photos

We always called this one .10d. I've never heard a name for it, though. It's helpful to bring a long draw for one of the bolts on the low-angle middle section to alleviate drag. Aug 19, 2014
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
  5.10c
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
  5.10c
Agreed about the long draw Ryan, specifically I thought it most useful on the last bolt on the slab before the roof. Aug 19, 2014
chrisbe Bell
Reno, Nevada
chrisbe Bell   Reno, Nevada
I felt 10c is a fair rating for this one. I'm 5'9 and the upper crux uses just about all my reach. Sep 8, 2014
KayJ  
The Description on MP sounds like the route called Cubic Zarconia (10.B) in SuperTopo and I was with a local who called it that as well. But seemed stiff for a 10.B/C (but I am only 5.3). First difficult crux off the deck before you reach the first bolt and then the climbing easies up until the roof bulge. Begin to the right and follow easy rock up and then traverse left if you want to skip the first bolt/crux. Getting to the two bolts to protect the second crux was very difficult for me but easier for my tall partner. Seems like this could be a mixed route because I wish I had some gear to place up there as it follows a crack system part of the way. Aug 24, 2015