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Routes in South Face

Bowling Alley (aka Regular Route) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cobbles 101 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, Alpine, 430 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brenden Sullivan, Jim Yoder, ground-up
Page Views: 1,629 total, 40/month
Shared By: Brenden Sullivan on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

From the pull out, follow the trail up to the lowest toe of the formation. Then, take a left and skirt around the rock about 75ft until you arrive in a narrow gully. Due to rock fall, try not to belay or leave packs directly in the mouth of the gully.

P1: 5.2 - Climb up the gully to the first bolt about 25 feet up. Continue RIGHT to a scenic belay in a saddle overlooking the East face. This is a 40m pitch. 4 clips and slings to chain anchors.

P2: 5.6 - Sling a nice cantaloupe off the belay and climb directly up the vertical groove over large watermelons and pumpkins, traverse camel hump back onto "Regular Route". 11 bolts to chains under a large bench.

P3: 5.4 - Climb up to a bolt and cut left across the groovy ledge and up a knobby ramp. Sling a few rocks and clip 3 bolts to chain anchors in basalt band.

P4: 5.6 - The summit pitch. Climb through the band of basalt to a chimney, sling a cobble after second bolt then leftward up a low angle chute to the summit. 5 clips. Don't forget to sign the summit register!

Descent: From the summit, rappel off the North end of the East face from an anchor set up near a tree. Make two rappels with a 60m rope or make one double-rope rappel to the ground.

NOTE: Chains are for belay and emergency exit only. Rappelling these routes can be dangerous! Be highly aware of swing potential and possibly taking your hands off the rope and climbing a bit to anchors, auto-block recommended. Most rappels are total rope-stretchers so TIE KNOTS or meet your doom!

Protection

Quickdraws and alpine draws - 12 total

Photos

I went with a more experienced friend and did this as my first multi-pitch route. We chose it because it was easy, and we wanted to focus on the skills new to multi-pitch climbing rather than the climbing itself.

It turned out to have fantastic intermediate views of Mt.Adams and a little bit of St.Helen. It's called bowling alley for a reason, so be ware of falling rocks. We were careful and didn't knock loose anything much larger than a pea, but that certainly isn't a given with how much loose rock there is on this route.

The view at the top was gorgeous. I recommend bringing your mountaineering or hiking shoes for after the rappel down, as it is an untamed mountain side. The rappel itself is fun, and I appreciate the presence of a third anchor, which made gear management easy. It's best done as a double-rope rappel. Aug 6, 2016
Wow. You've bolted the Bowling Alley route? That used to be a great beginner rope lead(no pro besides slings needed), and now you've turned it into just another sport climb. Too bad. Sep 6, 2015