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Routes in South Face

Bowling Alley (aka Regular Route) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cobbles 101 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, Alpine, 430 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brenden Sullivan, Jim Yoder, ground-up
Page Views: 2,253 total · 45/month
Shared By: Brenden Sullivan on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

From the pull out, follow the trail up to the lowest toe of the formation. Then, take a left and skirt around the rock about 75ft until you arrive in a narrow gully. Due to rock fall, try not to belay or leave packs directly in the mouth of the gully.

P1: 5.2 - Climb up the gully to the first bolt about 25 feet up. Continue up another 20ft to the next bolt and bare right up the gully to a belay in a saddle overlooking the east face. This is a 40m pitch. 4 or 5 bolts and slings to chain anchors.

P2: 5.6 - Sling a nice cantaloupe off the belay and climb directly up the vertical groove over large watermelons , traverse camel hump back onto "Regular Route". 11 bolts to chains under a large bench.

P3: 5.4 - Climb up to a bolt and cut left across the groovy ledge and up a knobby ramp. Sling a few rocks and clip 3 bolts to chain anchors in basalt band.

P4: 5.6 - The summit pitch. Climb through the band of basalt to a chimney, sling a cobble after second bolt then leftward up a low angle chute to the summit. 5 clips. Don't forget to sign the summit register!

Descent: From the summit, rappel off the North end of the East face from an anchor set up near a tree. Make two rappels with a 60m rope or make one double-rope rappel to the ground.

NOTE: Chains are for belay and emergency exit only. Rappelling these routes can be dangerous! Be highly aware of swing potential and possibly taking your hands off the rope and climbing a bit to anchors, auto-block recommended. Most rappels are total rope-stretchers so TIE KNOTS or meet your doom!

Protection

Quickdraws and alpine draws - 12 total

Photos

Wow. You've bolted the Bowling Alley route? That used to be a great beginner rope lead(no pro besides slings needed), and now you've turned it into just another sport climb. Too bad. Sep 6, 2015
I went with a more experienced friend and did this as my first multi-pitch route. We chose it because it was easy, and we wanted to focus on the skills new to multi-pitch climbing rather than the climbing itself.

It turned out to have fantastic intermediate views of Mt.Adams and a little bit of St.Helen. It's called bowling alley for a reason, so be ware of falling rocks. We were careful and didn't knock loose anything much larger than a pea, but that certainly isn't a given with how much loose rock there is on this route.

The view at the top was gorgeous. I recommend bringing your mountaineering or hiking shoes for after the rappel down, as it is an untamed mountain side. The rappel itself is fun, and I appreciate the presence of a third anchor, which made gear management easy. It's best done as a double-rope rappel. Aug 6, 2016
Joe Crook
Portland, OR
Joe Crook   Portland, OR
Concerning the first pitch - once you clip the first bolt you will be directly under a large rock gendarme - you do NOT go right from here, the next bolt is up another 20 feet or so to your slight-LEFT. After this bolt the gully widens and flattens out. The whole route on this first pitch is mildly gully-ish and bears slightly right towards Gutterball but at no point do you bear hard right like the beta makes it sound. Jul 23, 2018
Brenden Sullivan
Puyallup, WA
 
Brenden Sullivan   Puyallup, WA
 
Okay so the beta for pitch 1 has been updated, didn't realize know how detailed I needed to get. Aug 3, 2018

More About Bowling Alley (aka Regular Route)

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