PRINT: Rock Climb Skeleton Surfer, Smith Rock

Skeleton Surfer

5.11b/c, Sport,

Avg: 2.7 from 18 votes
FA: James Fredericks, Ted Ottto, Summer 1989.
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (f) Cocaine Gully

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

If you want to climb this at the grade then you'll simply haul yourself up to the first bolt and start fro there. If you want to turn it into a 12a then start from the base. The 12a move is easier if you have long arms. Super reachy. The route is so juggy, you'll forget that your even at smith. This route recieves little attention but I can't seem to figure out why. Great moves with a cool foot cutting crux up top. This and the Blade make a great combo. If joining the two routes, I reccommend Top roping Skeleton surfer and then leading The Blade to avoid rope drag.

Location

This route is on the big block plugging cocain gully just before you enter the closed right entrance.

Protection

5 bolts, chains. a little old and spinners but they still have some life in them.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start for the 11b is right below first bolt

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

dmPete

5.11b/c

4 bolts...first bolt is gone, and only the screw remains visible...stick clipping second bolt isn't too hard. I was very happy with the choice of stick clipping, as the moves off the deck might be the most difficult on the route. Mar 31, 2015

Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR

5.11b

thanks for the heads up. I'll replace it once i'm back in Oregon unless someone beats me to it "hint hint":) Apr 1, 2015

Capple Apple
Portland, OR

Really cool route, minus the start that i can't do...yet. Also the jug below the chains has a fair bit of wiggle to it. Hopefully it stays put. Mar 14, 2017

Charlie Egan
St George, UT

The wiggling jug fell off on 10/1/17. The route is a few ticks harder now. Oct 2, 2017

Daniel Chode Rider

These bolts are pretty bad and should be replaced. 3/8 sleeve bolts with (fortunately not the bad kind of) SMC hangers. Real fun climb. I think the whole route from the ground is somewhere between 11b and 12a. End crux might be the hardest move. Mar 31, 2022