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Routes in Upper Tier

Carson-Kodas Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Claim Jumper S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good Deed T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nancy's Bright Idea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nosferatu T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Organ Grinder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Orgasm Addict T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychological Rescue T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Vaino Kodas & Al Swanson, July 1986
Page Views: 116 total · 2/month
Shared By: Mike Stearns on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Flake and slabs put you into a wide, left-leaning crack system at the top. Looks tough.

Location

Left of Carson-Kodas arete. The most striking crack system.

Protection

Looks big. At least a few >#4 camelot. This is only speculative.

Photos

Super curious about this one. Saw it in a 1989 Rock And Ice topo. Jan 30, 2018
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
I checked it out from the base and getting to the start of the crack system is a serious runout on what appears to be a friction traverse (a topo I have says 10b). If you just want to do the cracks without risking your neck, I would suggest trying to rap in. The nearest place to get pro for the traverse or set up a belay is a left facing flake way left of the line near the left side of the approach ramp (visible in this page's photo of the route) and is perhaps not sufficient to keep a leader off the ground. Jul 17, 2018

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