Type: Sport, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 7 pitches
FA: R. Ruch, H. Furrer 1982
Page Views: 745 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jan-Thijs Menger on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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Another beautiful route on the Spazzacaldeira. It starts with some slabby pitches (crux at the second pitch) while I especially loved the fourth pitch, with a long handcrack. The sixth pitch is big fun as well, with a cool roof and slabs to finish. It is possible to continue with Dente Normalweg (5.4) to climb the Fiamma or the Dente.

P1 5a: climbs a well protected slab, 5 bolts.
P2 6a: another slab with the crux-move high up at the 6th bolt. Watch out for ropedrag! 6 bolts.
P3 5c+: cool pitch. Climbs a huge flake, 6 bolts.
P4 5c+: in my opinion the best pitch! A small traverse to the right leads to a sparcely bolted 100ft crack. 6 bolts.
P5 4c: short unbolted pitch. Easy climbing. The anchor is at the base of the roof.
P6 6a: another beautiful pitch. Starts with a well-bolted overhang, and ends with a long slab. 7 bolts.
P7 4b: easy climbing to the top-anchor. It's possible to continue the Dente Normalroute.


At the curve in the road, take a right and walk down to the base of the rock (150ft). There's a big red arrow with the name written on the wall.


Bolted with two-bolt anchors. I took a rack with middlesized cams, especcialy handy in the fourth pitch. Rappelling down is possible!