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Routes in (4) Star Wall

Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cry of the Gerbil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Star T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Daytime Drama S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Last Days T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Wing T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lethal Dose T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Levitate T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mantra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantra Extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morning Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neutron Star T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Paddee's Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tim S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turning Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Forrest Kaye
Page Views: 323 total, 8/month
Shared By: ForrestKaye on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Extension for Morning Star. Continue up to the right past the Morning Star anchors. Follow a thin crack for 15 ft then traverse left and up through the final steep section. Easier climbing to a large ledge just below the rim. Use a 70 m rope to lower to the ground. Tie a knot in the end of the rope a 70 just reaches. (planning on moving the anchors down lower at some point....)

Location

Lower with 70m rope or two raps with 60m using Morning Star anchor as intermediate.

Protection

I added 3 bolts to the route. It seemed like a needed enhancement. Still bring .5 to protect the last move if the bolt just down the right of of you is too far away. Also a # 1 or 2 BD cam will protect the easy 5.7 scramble to the anchors.

If you want to do it all trad: Bring small nuts and cams to protect the lower section, a .5 purple BD fits nicely as you pull the last bulge at the crux.

Photos

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ForrestKaye  
 
Added 3 bolts to the route. Planing on lowering the anchors at some point. Stay tuned. Jul 26, 2015
James E King
Bend, OR
James E King   Bend, OR
I second Matt's comment. We were using a rope that is technically 72 meters long and it still fell a few feet short. Having said that, there's no reason not to climb the route. Apr 12, 2015
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
 
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
 
When Forrest says "70m just reaches" he really means it. Standing on the highest pedestal, both ends of a 70 hang at eye-height, and I'm 6'1"! Be very careful! Oct 11, 2014