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Pace Is The Trick

V8, Boulder, 14 ft (4 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway > N Marsh Boulders (aka…
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Description

Start sitting with hands matched on the lowest incut crimp rail. Bump the left hand to one of two crimp gastons and then make a powerful pull to another small crimp rail that is a long ways away. Perhaps use a small knobby pinch to get there. If you make it that far, mostly good holds await. Follow these to an easy, but somewhat dirty top out just right of the tree.

Sharp, powerful, crimpy- in no particular order.

With some traffic, the top out will clean up nicely.

Location

From the parking head past 'Half Baked...' and down a short hill to a large boulder. This problem can be found on the east face, just right of a large hemlock tree.

Protection

A pad or two

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This photo shows the starting hold (blue) and general line of travel (red) of 'Pace Is The Trick'.
[Hide Photo] This photo shows the starting hold (blue) and general line of travel (red) of 'Pace Is The Trick'.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8-9
[Hide Comment] Not sure of the grade. Definitely felt at least v7. Felt harder than some of the 8's I've done recently, but it's always hard to say. Climb it and let me know what you think!

Probably more like 2.5 stars for me. With some traffic, this climb should clean up a bit and might end up being closer to 3 stars. Or not. :)

Also, if there's an established name for this, let me know and I'd be happy to change it. Aug 11, 2014
Ian McAfee
Hooksett, NH
  V9
[Hide Comment] This felt really heinous, but it's not my strength at all, super awesome line though, definitely going to revisit it. This boulder is so overlooked! Jul 26, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8-9
[Hide Comment] Yah, it's pretty hard. And sharp. There's a harder and equally sharp line to the left of the tree that starts kind of crouched on two small crimps. I've tried it a little, but I don't think it's been done yet.

The very large boulder down by the water has some really good potential as well, particularly on the side facing the water, if someone is willing to do some serious cleaning. Jul 27, 2015
Ian McAfee
Hooksett, NH
  V9
[Hide Comment] Got on this again a few weeks ago, found a far right foot for the big move that made the move feel possible, said "if that foot doesn't break I'll do it next go", obviously next go that foot exploded off the wall. Saw a lower far right foot that would be roughly equal to the broken foot, next go broke THAT foot off... and I threw in the towel.

In your video Christian you didn't use the feet I broke off, I tried it quite a bit with the foot you used, and it felt vicious. Cool problem, love the hard gaston moves, but damn... May 5, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8-9
[Hide Comment] You can give it the 'bomb' if you want, I won't take offense. :) The flakiness of the feet is definitely annoying. I used the foot that looked least likely to break after also breaking a bunch of feet. May 6, 2016
M Sprague
New England
Ian McAfee
Hooksett, NH
  V9
[Hide Comment] The feet I tried to use that broke off are obviously suspect and far out right, the foot you used is super solid and I doubt is going anywhere, I just can't do the move and was looking for tricks! I really like the climb, and this boulder has great lines in general. May 6, 2016
Ian McAfee
Hooksett, NH
  V9
[Hide Comment] Finally did this thing today, used feet out right, they seem solid now, not a chance in hell could I do the original beta, felt around v9 for me comparing it to high tech issues and ghetto knowledge. 5 or 6 sessions? Great climb! Oct 30, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8-9
[Hide Comment] Nice work, Ian! I changed the grade to v8/9. Hopefully it will get a few more repeats and we'll see where it falls. I agree it's a hard move and a pretty cool one at that. Oct 31, 2016
Ian McAfee
Hooksett, NH
  V9
[Hide Comment] Thanks! Jed actually figured out some alternate beta using some awful left hand hold with the intermediate right hand, so instead of a giant gaston move it'd be more squared up compression and then right hand move to the good hold, looked hard as well but I didn't try it. Oct 31, 2016
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8
[Hide Comment] Did this line a couple weeks ago with Gavin. I managed to flash but I have to say that this thing must chew through your fingers quite fast if you don't do it quick! Awesome crux move but questionable rock up top and sharp holds make it a 2 star line for me. Gavin and I used the same beta as Christian. Top could use some cleaning check it out. youtube.com/watch?v=S2d8Bb-… Jun 17, 2017
Tom Dursch
Somerville, MA
  V7
[Hide Comment] Neat climb, Christian. I gave it two stars only because the upper half is easy but dirty with several suspect holds. I wish the climb were more sustained but the movement at the bottom is really worth doing. Could be 3 stars if it were really clean. Felt v7 to me but I like lock offs. The foot I used looks to have been previously broken but it is not solid (and not too far out right). Oct 14, 2019