Mountain Project Logo

Routes in North Marsh Boulders (aka South Seas)

Casual State of Mind V3 6A
Dead Center V2-3 5+
Half Baked Over a Puddle of Mud V0 4
Northern Gentleman, The V2 5+
Pace Is The Trick V8-9 7B+
Right To Life V7 7A+
Too Many Jugs! V-easy 3
Trending South V3 6A
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 14 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 513 total · 11/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start sitting with hands matched on the lowest incut crimp rail. Bump the left hand to one of two crimp gastons and then make a powerful pull to another small crimp rail that is a long ways away. Perhaps use a small knobby pinch to get there. If you make it that far, mostly good holds await. Follow these to an easy, but somewhat dirty top out just right of the tree.

Sharp, powerful, crimpy- in no particular order.

With some traffic, the top out will clean up nicely.

Location

From the parking head past 'Half Baked...' and down a short hill to a large boulder. This problem can be found on the east face, just right of a large hemlock tree.

Protection

A pad or two

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Not sure of the grade. Definitely felt at least v7. Felt harder than some of the 8's I've done recently, but it's always hard to say. Climb it and let me know what you think!

Probably more like 2.5 stars for me. With some traffic, this climb should clean up a bit and might end up being closer to 3 stars. Or not. :)

Also, if there's an established name for this, let me know and I'd be happy to change it. Aug 11, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V9
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V9
This felt really heinous, but it's not my strength at all, super awesome line though, definitely going to revisit it. This boulder is so overlooked! Jul 26, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Yah, it's pretty hard. And sharp. There's a harder and equally sharp line to the left of the tree that starts kind of crouched on two small crimps. I've tried it a little, but I don't think it's been done yet.

The very large boulder down by the water has some really good potential as well, particularly on the side facing the water, if someone is willing to do some serious cleaning. Jul 27, 2015
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V9
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V9
Got on this again a few weeks ago, found a far right foot for the big move that made the move feel possible, said "if that foot doesn't break I'll do it next go", obviously next go that foot exploded off the wall. Saw a lower far right foot that would be roughly equal to the broken foot, next go broke THAT foot off... and I threw in the towel.

In your video Christian you didn't use the feet I broke off, I tried it quite a bit with the foot you used, and it felt vicious. Cool problem, love the hard gaston moves, but damn... May 5, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
You can give it the 'bomb' if you want, I won't take offense. :) The flakiness of the feet is definitely annoying. I used the foot that looked least likely to break after also breaking a bunch of feet. May 6, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The Brush May 6, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V9
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V9
The feet I tried to use that broke off are obviously suspect and far out right, the foot you used is super solid and I doubt is going anywhere, I just can't do the move and was looking for tricks! I really like the climb, and this boulder has great lines in general. May 6, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V9
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V9
Finally did this thing today, used feet out right, they seem solid now, not a chance in hell could I do the original beta, felt around v9 for me comparing it to high tech issues and ghetto knowledge. 5 or 6 sessions? Great climb! Oct 30, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Nice work, Ian! I changed the grade to v8/9. Hopefully it will get a few more repeats and we'll see where it falls. I agree it's a hard move and a pretty cool one at that. Oct 31, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V9
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V9
Thanks! Jed actually figured out some alternate beta using some awful left hand hold with the intermediate right hand, so instead of a giant gaston move it'd be more squared up compression and then right hand move to the good hold, looked hard as well but I didn't try it. Oct 31, 2016
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V8
Did this line a couple weeks ago with Gavin. I managed to flash but I have to say that this thing must chew through your fingers quite fast if you don't do it quick! Awesome crux move but questionable rock up top and sharp holds make it a 2 star line for me. Gavin and I used the same beta as Christian. Top could use some cleaning check it out. youtube.com/watch?v=S2d8Bb-… Jun 17, 2017

More About Pace Is The Trick

Printer-Friendly