Type: Sport, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches
FA: Guido Lisignoli, Bernhard Falett 1990
Page Views: 914 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jan-Thijs Menger on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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One of the easier lines on Spazzacaldeira. Features some great pitches, esspecially the third and the fourth pitch!

P1 5c: Slabby climbing, can stay wet for a while after rain. Some six bolts.
P2 5a: Climbs some easy slab followed by easy climbing through some bushes. Straight up and a finish to the left.
P3 5c: Great pitch! Climbs a beautiful crack and flake system. Laybacking and jamming. 5 bolts.
P4 6a: The hardest pitch of the route. Continues up the left leaning crack like the last pitch, with a balancy crux at the fourth bolt. Six bolts.
P5 5c+: some tricky slabby moves at the start (well protected). After the start, the pitch eases out to 5a terrain. No bolts but easy protection.
P6 4c: easy climbing with two bolts. Climb up the spur to the top for 30 feet. Than climb up the slabs to the left to an anchor with a summit-book.
P7 5c: a short easy pitch with 3 bolts, to an anchor in the grass. Beautiful farsight over the lake. Easy climbing.


The route climbs the left slab of the spazzacaldeira (see the general topo). When on top of the route you can either climb to the fiamma (to the right) or you can go down (walk to the left). Two rappels are needed to get down through the gully (good anchors).


Mostly bolted, some middle-sized cams (.5-2) might come in handy. Good anchors.