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Routes in Mt Carl Heller and Tulainyo Tower
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East Arete - Mt. Carl Heller T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Kind Line T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tulainyo Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Bill Stronge and Al Green (September 1973) |
| Page Views: | 2,564 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Viren Perumal on Aug 10, 2014 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year
Details
Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpage fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.
Access Issue: No Longer Restricted Access (Bighorn Sheep Zoological Restrictions lifted 2010)
Details
Though many guidebooks and websites discuss restricted access to this area the Bighorn Sheep Zoological Area - changed designation in 2010 and there are no current restrictions to access the area.
for more info see link below:
fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/new…
for more info see link below:
fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/new…
Description
This is a fun route with alpine granite that ranges from amazing to a little grungy and flakey. There are plenty of sections of wide climbing and rewards those who make the hike into this area with a grand adventure.
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The climb follows the prominent crack on the right side of the face, and the first pitch starts to the right of the lowest arch on the face.
Pitch 1: (5.6) crack climbing to a ledge
Pitch 2: (5.9) Wandering face and crack Climbing
Pitch 3: (5.10) Thin Seam into a 5.8 crack to a nice ledge
Pitch 4: (5.10) Easier crack climbing leads to a left traverse back into the main wide crack
Pitch 5: (5.10) Long Pitch up a crack that has 2 distant roofs to pull through (Save #2-4 for belay plus you need big pro for next pitch)
Pitch 6: (Burl fest) (5.10+ OW and Squeeze) Leave the belay and work towards the crux that lies about a bolt that is just above a small roof in an off width section of the crack. I found this pitch containing wet moss in the back of the crack which kept the excitement high
Pitch 7: (5.8) continue up the crack and move right up a ramp at the top of the pitch to avoid some loose rock and then back left into an alcove.
Pitch 8: (5.8) Another pitch with broken rock in the corner but a clean crack on the left wall when the corner ends continue up to the right on a ledge and belay (avoid your rope running across loose rocks)
Pitch 9 (easy 5th) continue up to the summit wondering up and slightly left.
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Further Information:
Fiddler Pg 96
Secor Page 82
Summit Post:
summitpost.org/tulainyo-tow…
The climb follows the prominent crack on the right side of the face, and the first pitch starts to the right of the lowest arch on the face.
Pitch 1: (5.6) crack climbing to a ledge
Pitch 2: (5.9) Wandering face and crack Climbing
Pitch 3: (5.10) Thin Seam into a 5.8 crack to a nice ledge
Pitch 4: (5.10) Easier crack climbing leads to a left traverse back into the main wide crack
Pitch 5: (5.10) Long Pitch up a crack that has 2 distant roofs to pull through (Save #2-4 for belay plus you need big pro for next pitch)
Pitch 6: (Burl fest) (5.10+ OW and Squeeze) Leave the belay and work towards the crux that lies about a bolt that is just above a small roof in an off width section of the crack. I found this pitch containing wet moss in the back of the crack which kept the excitement high
Pitch 7: (5.8) continue up the crack and move right up a ramp at the top of the pitch to avoid some loose rock and then back left into an alcove.
Pitch 8: (5.8) Another pitch with broken rock in the corner but a clean crack on the left wall when the corner ends continue up to the right on a ledge and belay (avoid your rope running across loose rocks)
Pitch 9 (easy 5th) continue up to the summit wondering up and slightly left.
Further Information:
Fiddler Pg 96
Secor Page 82
Summit Post:
summitpost.org/tulainyo-tow…
Location
The route is located just to the left of Mt. Carl Heller and is in a wild alpine cirque.
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Descent. From the top of the roped climbing head due west in the direction of wallace lake. cross over several rock ribs on the west side of Mt. Carl Heller as you travel north over Vacation Pass. Follow sandy slopes and ledges back to your camp.
Alternatively you can approach from Russell - Carillon Col and camp at Wallace Lake for this route
Descent. From the top of the roped climbing head due west in the direction of wallace lake. cross over several rock ribs on the west side of Mt. Carl Heller as you travel north over Vacation Pass. Follow sandy slopes and ledges back to your camp.
Alternatively you can approach from Russell - Carillon Col and camp at Wallace Lake for this route
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