Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mt Carl Heller and Tulainyo Tower

East Arete - Mt. Carl Heller T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Tulainyo Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, Grade II
FA: Cark Gekker abd Al Green (august 1966)
Page Views: 2,253 total · 54/month
Shared By: Viren Perumal on Aug 10, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
No Longer Restricted Access (Bighorn Sheep Zoological Restrictions lifted 2010) Details
Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

The East Arete is Classic - one of the best routes of its grade and type in the range....downright enjoyable!!!



I think it shares the quality and style of east ridge of Russel and the east ridge of muir...just with really low chances of running into anyone else.

Climb the East Ridge on enjoyable rock to the summit...staying left of the gully at the very top.

Fiddler Pg 94
Secor Pg 83



There is more info that can be found on climbing this route with a great trip report from a winter ascent here:
markpthomas.com/mountaineer…

and another description here:
summitpost.org/mt-carl-hell…

Location

You can descend down the southwest slopes or down climb the route which is a nice option if you are staying in the drainage.

Protection

Scramble the route or carry a light alpine rack and a very short rope (15M should be adequate for any short steep steps.

Photos

BKH Hastings
  4th PG13
BKH Hastings  
  4th PG13
Climbed the East Arete this past weekend with my wife (approach via George Creek). Both of us consider ourselves moderate climbers with 35 years of combined experience. While we felt the overall experience was like none other (given the approach, solitude, terrain), we also believe that no one should take this adventure lightly. I strongly suggest that this route be classified as Class 4 with some 5th class climbing (5.2-5.4), maybe as the result of recent rock fall. Descending the route or the west side also involves at least 1 full-length rappel. If camped on the east side and descending the west side, return travel involves descending all the way to Wallace Lake and back up and over Vacation Pass--a definite long day out. I wanted to provide this description to give the novice climber fair warning before they considered this objective without a rope and light rack. Be safe and enjoy. Jul 5, 2016
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Great post, the links have a lot of information - let's hope they stay active. Jan 13, 2016
Richard Shore
  4th
Richard Shore  
  4th
The BEST 3rd/4th class route I've done in these mountains, hands down. Spectacular position and a natural line directly on the knife-edge ridge. Miles better than Russell, Muir, Middle Pal, etc. Sep 3, 2015
PumpkinEater
Sacramento
  4th
PumpkinEater   Sacramento
  4th
Above average climbing on an awesome feature in a remote drainage. Not a soul in sight. Very narrow in places where, if you've got the mind for it, you can "walk the plank"! A few moves were certainly 4th class. Oct 3, 2014