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Routes in Hemingway Wall

A Farewell to Arms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
For Whom the Bell Tolls T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Six Toed Cats T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sun Also Rises, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: M. Morin, A. Peterson, 8/2012
Page Views: 105 total · 2/month
Shared By: Pete Krzanowsky on Aug 10, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Falcon Closures Details

Description

P1. Follow a right angling ramp towards a bit of a headwall where some water may be dripping. At the head of this wall is a bolt, which is fairly well hidden from the ground. From here, follow easier, slabby terrain to a bolted (2 big Metolius bolts) belay station on your right. Some protection is available along the way in bigger cracks.

P2. From the belay station, move left towards a bit of a "staircase" of rocks with very limited opportunities for gear. Stay to the left of the dripping water/waterfall. The steps steepen, but the holds are solid, and there are good stances for your feet. There is one bolt to your right, almost parallel to some cool crystals/quartz in the rock. This was my first and only pro on the route. Then head up another 15 feet, then traverse right to the 2 bolt belay station. Your second may be able to go more directly right from the bolt onto the steeper headwall. Rap from here to the ground with 2 60m ropes.

Location

Using the Fixed Pin guide, a good picture shows the start of the route. It is just to the right of For Whom the Bell Tolls. The two route are on the south face of Hemmingway Wall, about 75 feet to the right when you reach Meadow Dome. A distinguishing feature is a bit of a water streak/drip where you start the route.

To descend, we using two 60m ropes and rapped from the second set of anchors. This gets you down with more than enough rope.

Protection

Minimal rack and a few QDs. My partner placed a 2 and a 3 on the first pitch, and I led the 2nd pitch with just one QD. The route is runout, but the two bolts and the protection protect the cruxes.

There is a bolted belay station about 100 feet up. My partner attempted to link the two pitches but didn't like the runout between the belay station and the upper bolt. I think breaking it into two pitches makes sense.

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