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A Farewell to Arms
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 1.6 from 8
votes
Routes in Hemingway Wall
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A Farewell to Arms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Dangerous Summer, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Death in the Afternoon? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For Whom the Bell Tolls T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Growing Pains S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Iceberg Theory S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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In Our Time S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Intentional Repetition S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Old Man and the Sea S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Six Toed Cats T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sun Also Rises, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | M. Morin, A. Peterson, 8/2012 |
| Page Views: | 1,133 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Pete Krzanowsky on Aug 10, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
P1. Follow a right angling ramp towards a bit of a headwall where some water may be dripping. At the head of this wall is a bolt, which is fairly well hidden from the ground. From here, follow easier, slabby terrain to a bolted (2 big Metolius bolts) belay station on your right. Some protection is available along the way in bigger cracks.
P2. From the belay station, move left towards a bit of a "staircase" of rocks with very limited opportunities for gear. Stay to the left of the dripping water/waterfall. The steps steepen, but the holds are solid, and there are good stances for your feet. There is one bolt to your right, almost parallel to some cool crystals/quartz in the rock. This was my first and only pro on the route. Then head up another 15 feet, then traverse right to the 2 bolt belay station. Your second may be able to go more directly right from the bolt onto the steeper headwall. Rap from here to the ground with 2 60m ropes.
P2. From the belay station, move left towards a bit of a "staircase" of rocks with very limited opportunities for gear. Stay to the left of the dripping water/waterfall. The steps steepen, but the holds are solid, and there are good stances for your feet. There is one bolt to your right, almost parallel to some cool crystals/quartz in the rock. This was my first and only pro on the route. Then head up another 15 feet, then traverse right to the 2 bolt belay station. Your second may be able to go more directly right from the bolt onto the steeper headwall. Rap from here to the ground with 2 60m ropes.
Location
Using the Fixed Pin guide, a good picture shows the start of the route. It is just to the right of For Whom the Bell Tolls. The two route are on the south face of Hemmingway Wall, about 75 feet to the right when you reach Meadow Dome. A distinguishing feature is a bit of a water streak/drip where you start the route.
To descend, we using two 60m ropes and rapped from the second set of anchors. This gets you down with more than enough rope.
To descend, we using two 60m ropes and rapped from the second set of anchors. This gets you down with more than enough rope.
Protection
Minimal rack and a few QDs. My partner placed a 2 and a 3 on the first pitch, and I led the 2nd pitch with just one QD. The route is runout, but the two bolts and the protection protect the cruxes.
There is a bolted belay station about 100 feet up. My partner attempted to link the two pitches but didn't like the runout between the belay station and the upper bolt. I think breaking it into two pitches makes sense.
There is a bolted belay station about 100 feet up. My partner attempted to link the two pitches but didn't like the runout between the belay station and the upper bolt. I think breaking it into two pitches makes sense.
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