Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 3/25/14
Page Views: 816 total · 7/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Aug 9, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A prominent left-facing dihedral about 100 meters right (south) of the Bant.
Start via a grungy squeeze (or scamper up the shrubby tree and step across) and proceed up more squeeze chimney with handjams in wedged blocks through the dirty lower portion. The upper corner begins as an off-width, and narrows through fists into steep cups.
Some trundling and cleaning was done to the lower section, but it's still a bit dirty and definitely desert blue-collar; the upper corner is clean and excellent.
The climb holds good shade, even late into the afternoon, and the belay is behind a boulder and shady too. This is a good option to escape the heat on this otherwise sunny wall.

Location Suggest change

About 100 meters left (south) of the Bant on the west-facing cliff that runs from the shallow side canyon just beyond the parking/fenceline (south) to the Bant (north). Refer to the overview/ Beta picture below.
From the parking area/gate, walk up the closed two-track for about 1/2 mile, cut cross-country right (west) through the wash (brushy) and up the loose hillside to the cliff.
About 30 minutes from the car.

Protection Suggest change

(1X) 1, (2X) 2, (4X) 3, (2X) 4, (1X) 5, 6 BD camalots, chain/ cold shut anchor.