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Haciendo Polvo
5.11,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
FA: Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 3/24/14
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> 191 South
> Bluff
> Cottonwood Wash
> Sandwalker Buttress
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A left-facing dihedral that is on a narrowing block fractured from a tall pillar that spans the height of the cliff.
Starts as cups, but quickly narrows through hands, thin hands, and into tight .75/baggy .5 laybacking through an overhanging stretch to a "thank God" handjam at the lip of the steep bit. Ends on the narrow ledge atop the detached block (which is dusty from the removal of several sizable blocks).
This is a pumpy layback affair on good Bluff rock, although there's some friable edges on the face and some lichen near the top.
Location
Near the center of the west-facing cliff that runs from the shallow side canyon just beyond the parking/fenceline (south) to the Bant (north). Refer to the overview/ Beta picture below.
From the parking area/gate, walk up the closed two-track for about 1/2 mile, cut cross-country right (west) through the wash (brushy) and up the loose hillside to the cliff.
About 30 minutes from the car.
Protection
(1X) .4 (3X) .5, .75 (2X) 1 (1X) 2, 3 BD camalots, chain/cold shut anchor.
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