Type: Trad, Aid, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: David Fay and Trevor Bowman 12/3/13
Page Views: 958 total · 8/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Aug 9, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This ascends the clean, left-facing dihedral on the left side of a prominent, beer bottle shaped pillar leaning against the cliff.
It starts with a log ladder to overcome the rotten, overhanging 10' band at the base. From the ledge atop the ladder, ascend the left side of a wide, hollow flake (easy) to the base of the dihedral. Crank up the vertical dihedral on glory hands, which widen to cups as the angle lessens up the neck of the "bottle", finish with a few off-width moves to a great belay ledge on top of the "bottle".
This is a great desert moderate, and the rock is pretty good considering it's the Bluff Member, but it ain't no Wingate...

Location Suggest change

From the gate/parking, follow the fenceline west, cross the wash, and continue into the shallow side-canyon a couple of hundred meters until below the "beer bottle" pillar on the south-facing cliff above. Hike up the loose hillside a couple of hundred feet to the base. About 10-15 minutes from the car.

Protection Suggest change

(3X) #2, #3 (1X) #4, #5 BD camalots, chain/shut anchor