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Routes in Sandwalker Buttress
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Bant, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Haciendo Dedo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Haciendo Polvo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I'm Calling Your Bluff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Men at Work T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 |
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Mormon Teabag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Soaking in the Shade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stolen Knee T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | David Fay and Trevor Bowman 12/3/13 |
| Page Views: | 977 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Aug 9, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This ascends the clean, left-facing dihedral on the left side of a prominent, beer bottle shaped pillar leaning against the cliff.
It starts with a log ladder to overcome the rotten, overhanging 10' band at the base. From the ledge atop the ladder, ascend the left side of a wide, hollow flake (easy) to the base of the dihedral. Crank up the vertical dihedral on glory hands, which widen to cups as the angle lessens up the neck of the "bottle", finish with a few off-width moves to a great belay ledge on top of the "bottle".
This is a great desert moderate, and the rock is pretty good considering it's the Bluff Member, but it ain't no Wingate...
It starts with a log ladder to overcome the rotten, overhanging 10' band at the base. From the ledge atop the ladder, ascend the left side of a wide, hollow flake (easy) to the base of the dihedral. Crank up the vertical dihedral on glory hands, which widen to cups as the angle lessens up the neck of the "bottle", finish with a few off-width moves to a great belay ledge on top of the "bottle".
This is a great desert moderate, and the rock is pretty good considering it's the Bluff Member, but it ain't no Wingate...
Location
From the gate/parking, follow the fenceline west, cross the wash, and continue into the shallow side-canyon a couple of hundred meters until below the "beer bottle" pillar on the south-facing cliff above. Hike up the loose hillside a couple of hundred feet to the base. About 10-15 minutes from the car.
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