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Red Orkan

5.10b/c, Trad, 105 ft (32 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 15 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Mother's Buttress > Outback

Description

This is a great route that climbs a water groove up a pillar. The crux is entering and then exiting a body length, egg-shaped pod at half height.

Location

This is the right-most route on the wall.

Protection

9 QDs, C3s, and a #0.75 Camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route.
[Hide Photo] The route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aaron Glasenapp
Denver, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] This is an interesting route for a few reasons. Just below the biggest of the pods, the lack of features forced me to the right into the crack/seam for about 30 feet, and only stepping and reaching far left to clip the bolts. I felt like I was off route, and from what I could tell, climbing the bolt line directly would have been much harder than 5.10. I also did not bring any gear, as the route is listed as sport. Clipping the highest bolt visible from the ground (maybe the 8th bolt?), was a spicy PG-13 clip with 20+ foot fall potential with some bulges to hit on the way if you're not careful.

All that said, it was enjoyable climbing. Bring some small gear I guess for the crack. May 30, 2017
Keith Laurenz
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Bring gear! If you want this route to feel safe and not send you too far right into the crack, then bring a 0.2-0.75 cams to protect the cruxes. I thought there were about 3 cruxes - all fun. You can reach around right midway up to lieback up the featureless face climbing. There is JUST enough there to get you through if you trend right and then trend left about midway and up above midway. For the trending right moves, just stay on the rounded arete just right of the concave features. Then at the last concave feature, you have good feet and you move left. There are actually good hands left and a move to an elephant ear-style flake in the granite before pulling through the steepness. Easy climbing to the top. I never varied more than 3 or 4 feet right or left of the bolts - a solid 5.10c. If you go straight up the line the entire way, it's like 5.12+, lol. May 15, 2023