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Tender Flakes of Mercy
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 10
votes
Routes in Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (including Upper and Lower Alchemist)
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Bowling Alone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cupcakes & Champagne S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Fun in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Golden Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hills Have Flies, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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King Snake Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Labrador Ate the Cupcakes, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pilot’s Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prestige, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quiet Flight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Tender Flakes of Mercy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Ugly Duckling S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Written Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Patrick Callery & Matthew Fienup (July 2014) |
| Page Views: | 1,540 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Aug 7, 2014 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Outstanding moderate face climbing with great position on the wall and an excellent summit. Almost as wonderful as its next door neighbor, Fun in the Sun.
Pitch 1 starts below a small, left-facing dihedral. Bring TCUs (#3 and #0 work well) for the crack above the first bolt. Exit the dihedral to the right and then climb straight up past 3 more bolts and a 2" cam placement. Belay from bolts (5.7, 95').
Pitch 2 heads straight up past bolts. A short 5.8 crux is encountered while stepping from a ledge up onto the upper headwall at the 4th bolt. Belay from bolts (5.8, 95').
Pitch 1 starts below a small, left-facing dihedral. Bring TCUs (#3 and #0 work well) for the crack above the first bolt. Exit the dihedral to the right and then climb straight up past 3 more bolts and a 2" cam placement. Belay from bolts (5.7, 95').
Pitch 2 heads straight up past bolts. A short 5.8 crux is encountered while stepping from a ledge up onto the upper headwall at the 4th bolt. Belay from bolts (5.8, 95').
- When rappelling, be sure to rap immediately to the right and then down from the rap-hangers. If you rap straight down and then swing over to rap station in the middle of the wall, it will be very difficult to pull your rope.
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