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Routes in Byron Glacier Wall

Amway TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astroglide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Pudding S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crisco Kid T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crossover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dynamo Hum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ho Hum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hungry Time S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Icky Thump S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Indian Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just One More S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marksalot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Project 5.13 S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Open Project 5.13. S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Potentially Dry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rootbeer Float S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip and Slide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slippery When Wet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slurm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spotted Dick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stick Shift S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin Mary, Not S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waterslide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wetter the Better, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: TR, 100 ft
FA: Wes Schaffer
Page Views: 170 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nick Weicht on Aug 7, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Amway is a TR only and is reached by climbing Hungry Time on right to a shared anchor. Start climbing the ramp to the left of Hungry Time before starting up a steep rock face with smooth holds. Pass a bulge on the face before reaching the anchor.

Location

After crossing the stream and debris pile on the approach trail continue up valley a few hundred yards. The main wall is the lowest rock formation on the mountain and is made of a smooth, triangle shape cliff. Scramble to the base of the arete and look up to see the first bolt of Crisco Kid. Walk 95' to the right and look up 18' for the first clip on top of a bulge.

Protection

2 bolt chain anchor.

Photos

L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.10c
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.10c
Rock Quality on this is excellent and nearly as good as it's righthand neighbor Jul 4, 2015

More About Amway

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