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Routes in Narrows - South

Alma B S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Smile, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Bomb Track S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eleven, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Boys Sipping and Chipping Club, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Narrow Minded S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nerve Agent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old School S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Prince of Squeeze S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quocs Wok S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
River Runs Through It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rivers Edge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slim Shady (The Real Slim Shady 13a) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Thunder Ball S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown 11c-ish S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walk the Plank S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Martin Berzins, 2007
Page Views: 477 total · 9/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Aug 6, 2014 with updates from JOHN - A - TRON
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This fun line climbs in and out of one of the largest pods on the southern side of the upper narrows.
Start by padding up a thin slab past a couple of bolts (somewhat insecure and hard to read, stick clipping is recommended as the holds can get dusty) and establish yourself at the base of the large pod. Stem your way up the pod, avoiding a few loose holds, to reach a clip in the underbelly of the cave (long draw useful). Catch a sweet rest at the apex of the cave, using bomber jams to study the upper section. Clip the first fixed draw, extract yourself form the pod and launch up the lightning bolt crack feature, eventually tackling a final bulging section to reach the chains.

An alternative lines cuts right from the pod (Thunder Ball).

Location

First route to the right of Walk the Plank. It follows the longest runnel/pod into a cave feature. A very distinctive lightning bolt crack splits the upper section, the anchor sit on a small bulging face to the left of a large bush.
Start in the creek as there is no plank to reach the start of this one. A decent rock stack will help you keep your feet dry.

Protection

7 bolts to chain anchor. The last 4 bolts sported fixed draws as of early 07/14. Use a longer draw at the 3rd clip to prevent rope drag. A stick clip is nice to avoid landing in the creek. The first 3 bolts may feel a bit R, especially when hanging the draws on a first try.

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Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
A fun and spicy route. Start is a bit run-out; blowing the second clip could be bad. Sep 2, 2014
This looks like one of the two routes I bolted and climbed in 2007/2008

Martin Berzins Oct 9, 2018

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