No Sense of Fashion
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Bill Dockins, Van Alke (April 2000) |
Page Views: | 1,629 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Ben Mackall on Aug 4, 2014 · Updates |
Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
A absolutely fabulous route with great variety. Bouldery start leads to stemming in a balancy and tenuous dihedral to a gymnastic pull around a roof to a technical slab. Some horrifyingly tenuous moves but bolting is close and hence protection is excellent.
Start the first three clips or so with a hard to decipher and somewhat bouldery sequence (crux) involving high steps, stemming, and tick-tacking up on bad feet and "searchy" crimps. Tenuous but well protected and once the third clip is reached jugs start to appear. From here use the occasional right hand around the arete and stem your way up the consistent dihedral to a good stance below the roof. Find the jugs (they are there, pwomise) and pull right around the roof onto a beautiful rippled gray slab for a few clips with vertical seams containing sidepulls and the occasional stem. Good footwork will reward this last bit, and indeed the entire route.
Enjoy. One of the better routes on this section of cliff.
Start the first three clips or so with a hard to decipher and somewhat bouldery sequence (crux) involving high steps, stemming, and tick-tacking up on bad feet and "searchy" crimps. Tenuous but well protected and once the third clip is reached jugs start to appear. From here use the occasional right hand around the arete and stem your way up the consistent dihedral to a good stance below the roof. Find the jugs (they are there, pwomise) and pull right around the roof onto a beautiful rippled gray slab for a few clips with vertical seams containing sidepulls and the occasional stem. Good footwork will reward this last bit, and indeed the entire route.
Enjoy. One of the better routes on this section of cliff.
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