Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Dockins, Van Alte (April 2000)
Page Views: 446 total · 8/month
Shared By: B-Mkll Mackall on Aug 4, 2014
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

A absolutely fabulous route with great variety. Bouldery start leads to stemming in a balancy and tenuous dihedral to a gymnastic pull around a roof to a technical slab. Some horrifyingly tenuous moves but bolting is close and hence protection is excellent.

Start the first three clips or so with a hard to decipher and somewhat bouldery sequence (crux) involving high steps, stemming, and tick-tacking up on bad feet and "searchy" crimps. Tenuous but well protected and once the third clip is reached jugs start to appear. From here use the occasional right hand around the arete and stem your way up the consistent dihedral to a good stance below the roof. Find the jugs (they are there, pwomise) and pull right around the roof onto a beautiful rippled gray slab for a few clips with vertical seams containing sidepulls and the occasional stem. Good footwork will reward this last bit, and indeed the entire route.

Enjoy. One of the better routes on this section of cliff.

Location

Looking at the Geriatrix slab, there are two obvious bolted dihedrals capped by square roofs. This takes the line up the more prominent of the two. Low first bolt.

Protection

Bolts (10) to chains.

Photos

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