Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Run To The Hills

5.11b, Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.6 from 13 votes
FA: FA: Craig Martin, Eric Salmi, Julia Salmi, Dave Littman 2008
Utah > Uinta Mountains > Hayden Peak > Iron Hayden Wall
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A great one pitch cragging or 3 pitch adventure route.

Pitch 1: (5.10a, 90') Pull the low crux at bolt 1 and follow great edges to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear is required in the horizontals between the bolts and at the top.

Pitch 2: Steep start to the climbers’ right of the belay using cryptic moves (5.10) past 3 bolts leads to a ledge with a large block on its left side. Continue up and slightly right utilizing some gear placements and heading for the bolts. Climb up the very cool, steep face using liebacks and crimps as the moves get harder. The climbing stays pretty sustained past 10 or so bolts before easing off and rambling up a short corner (5.7, #1 camalot) to a belay ledge with 2 bolt anchor (2 ropes needed for descent). 5.11a, 130’.

Pitch 3: Climb up and right to a shallow left facing dihedral. Unlock the sequence to get into the dihedral (5.10a). Follow bolts and a few gear placements up to a narrow ledge system. Pull up onto the ledge and move to the left, then up a steep face to a fingers to hands splitter. Continue up this crack to a roof with a bolt and faux chimney above. Finesse your way into this chimney of awkwardness (5.11b) and continue up passing a small roof on the left. Finish at a 2 bolt anchor on a nice ledge at the top of the wall (No chains, rappel Sun & Steel). 5.11b, 130’.

Rap with two ropes or rap Sun & Steel.

Location

This is the 3rd route with bolts to the left of Sun and Steel. The bolt hangers are painted yellow.

Protection

bolts and gear to #2 camalot...

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Second pitch
[Hide Photo] Second pitch
Run to the Hills
[Hide Photo] Run to the Hills
3rd pitch of Run to the Hills.
[Hide Photo] 3rd pitch of Run to the Hills.
Run to the Hills<br>
Pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Run to the Hills Pitch 1

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The first pitch is a total classic and also serves as a great warm up. Sep 28, 2014
Craig Martin
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Pitch 2: Aprox. 14 bolts. Aug 11, 2016
Maynard
Lisbon, ct
 
[Hide Comment] Pitch 3 felt more like 10c. Aug 2, 2017
bheller
SL UT
 
[Hide Comment] Props to the FA team! A fine route indeed. I loved the naturally protected section on pitch 3- it holds the most memorable climbing on the entire Iron Hayden Wall! The small nut placements were so bomber! (Cams were useful too) If I may be permitted one bit of constructive criticism: the final two bolts and especially the last bolt to the left while exiting the "chimney of awkwardness" on pitch 3 seemed unessasarry and diminished the traditional value in that section for my partner and I... we felt solid gear was obvious. Would the FA team consider removing them? Again, gratitude and congratulations offered for creating such a fine route on such a fine wall;) Aug 6, 2017
Craig Martin
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Glad you liked the route. I like the bolts on the 3rd pitch and I don't remember the specifics of why we placed them where we did or why we did. It seemed appropriate at the time but they might not be necessary for a safe ascent of the route. I am sorry if they are offensive and if more people find them so.....then someone should pull them. It probably won't be me. Aug 6, 2017
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Spectacular from top to bottom with consistently good climbing and no throwaway sections. One of my favorite lines in the Uintas.
P1 will wake you right up. I found getting established on P2 to be pretty heady, the first 3-bolts section is no joke. The rest of the pitch is a battle between the pump and you ability to read one cryptic sequence after another. Stiff for 11a.
P3 felt closer to the given rating than to the 10c CT sandbag in the comments. It's easy to tunnel vision and get worked. Jul 17, 2018