Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 11 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jack Durrance and Michael Davis, 1938
Page Views: 1,238 total · 21/month
Shared By: Sean McLane on Aug 3, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

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This description is for the upper third of the climb from the Valhalla Traverse Ledge, as it is usually climbed.

Adapted from Ortenburger's guide
Ortenburger, L. N., & Jackson, R. G. (1996). A climber's guide to the Teton Range (p. 214). Seattle, WA: Mountaineers.

P1 - 5.7 to the base of a flake
P2 - 5.6 up the right side of the flake into black rock
P3 - 5.6 through break
P4 - 5.6 OW flake
P5 - 5.6 OW chimney
scramble along crest 350'
P6 - 5.8 OW to Enclosure Col
P7 - 5.7 crack
P8 - 5.6 right around overhang
P9 - easy 5th along ridge
P10 - 5.7 crack
scramble up black rock
P11 - 5.8 awkward step past fixed pin


Standard Teton rack


Valdez, AK
Taylor-B.   Valdez, AK
First off... You didn't site the guide book correctly, and this could be considered plagiarism of the topo: Ortenburger, L. N., & Jackson, R. G. (1996). A climber's guide to the Teton Range (p. 214). Seattle, WA: Mountaineers.
And this is considered one of the longest routes in the Tetons, if done in it's entirety from Cascade Canyon and to just "describe the upper third" denotes the route as a whole. Also the profile picture isn't even yours, unless your the GTNP Ranger that took the photo. To crawl out of Cascade Canyon or Valhalla Canyon is a right of passage and should be described in a more organic form as a "route description" that you've personally done.
So, did you climb this route or what? Aug 3, 2014
Sean McLane
Salt Lake City, UT
Sean McLane   Salt Lake City, UT
Glad to see someone else cares about the route. I found it to be a large omission from the site and added the barebones description here to get it up.

I will update to cite the guidebook correctly. The photo is not mine, however, it shows the route much better than anything I have from climbing it. I can add the URL to that as well.

I can only personally speak to the last 5 pitches, as I climbed the Enclosure Ice Couloir first. Sounds like you have done the full route. If you have anything to add, I would be happy to add any details and make corrections to the length, etc. Aug 4, 2014
Dapper Dan Rogers
Driggs, ID
Dapper Dan Rogers   Driggs, ID
Worth noting, whats marked here as P11, is really just one move for what I would assume to be a section where you have already packed up gear and scrambled up the black rock section. (it's marked CL4 in a few guides I think) It's kind of a boulder move really, but with a bit more exposure than you would like perhaps. There is a piton here you can rather simply use to aid through, if, like us you've already packed up the rope and rack. As always, use your judgement on piton condition, as a fall here unroped would be very, very uncool. Aug 21, 2015