Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chockstone Corridor - South Summit

Goats on a Bridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purple Pawn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ticket to Taster Town T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jason and Erin Haas
Page Views: 70 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jim Slichter on Jul 31, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start the climb under the gap formed by the lowest and second lowest chockstones. Boulder up six feet, place some gear in a finger crack on the north wall, and then make an awkward move over to and up onto the first stone. From here, the climbing is very straightforward to get on top of the second, third, and fourth chockstones.

Now move onto the near vertical north wall again following a series of chicken heads that is bisected by a crack system which affords good protection. The crux of the climb is midway up this crack system where the hand crack ends for about a four foot distance. Once you are past this point, face climb up and right to the narrowest point of the corridor. Chimney up between the two walls until it seems easiest to pull over onto the south wall where another hand crack leads to the top. Build your belay here and not at the rappel anchors which would generate huge rope drag.

Location

Enter the Chockstone Corridor from the south side via the Mountaineer's Trail that accesses the Chessmen group. Proceed into the Corridor and up a 12' step to reach the start of the climb.

To descend down the south wall, move to the right and down from the top of the climb to reach a rappel station consisting of slings around a spike of rock. As you climb down from the end of the climb, you will first come to some slings around a boulder that is on a ledge. This is not the rappel station and is actually 10' above the rock spike that you are looking for. Take care getting to the rappel station as it is quite exposed with no real ledge at the rock spike.

When you descend, rappel down between the third and fourth chockstones then hope your rope does not get stuck when you pull it.

Protection

Standard rack including cams from a #0 Metolius TCU to a #3 Camalot plus a set of nuts.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments