Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Stetinden

Sydpillaren (South Pillar) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 13 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Håkan Bjerneld and Lars-Göran Johansson, 1972
Page Views: 1,303 total · 31/month
Shared By: Aaron Liebling on Jul 31, 2014
Admins: Michael Sullivan

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A classic route well worth its reputation. From a distance it looks inaccessible from where the route twists its way up the large granite slabs on the pillar in the middle of the south wall, but a system of shelves allow approach to the base of the pillar and the start of the route. Two other large shelving systems, the First and the Second Amphi cross the further up.

Rockfax has published a free miniguide with excellent approach and descent information, as well as a topo:

miniguide

The excellent guidebook is also fabulously beautiful and contains many other routes on Stetind and in the surrounding area.


Note: since the miniguide and the guidebook were published, rockfall has substantially altered pitch 8. Instead, we cimbed out left on zigzagging splitter hand cracks and a bit of face climbing (probably 5.9).

Approach

Follow the directions in the miniguide. Make sure you take the big gully leading right and not the grassy gully going left. Eventually, you will find a spot to climb up and left out of the gully (hopefully cairned) and from there you make your way left on shelves towards the large bowl. You do not need to cross any seriously scary slabs. if you find yourself confronting them, look for a way to get to a higher shelf. In the bowl, we found it easiest to go below the remaining ice to access the grassy ramp leading to the the actual start of the route, but this probably depends on how much snow is left. Follow the grassy ramp up until the obvious base of the route.

Photos

Tommy L-D  
 
Pitch 5 (the traverse left): MAKE SURE you only go 15m. If you reach a nice ledge and 2 shiny bolts (30m) you've gone too far. These are apparently from an old rescue. You can get back to the route from here, (climb right after the crack) but the climbing is awkward and left one of our followers in a bad spot (there's also numerous bail anchors above, some continued up and realized their mistake)

Phenomenal climb, one of the best of it's type. I'm still dreaming about those headwall pitches! Don't underestimate the descent, between reversing the Standard Route and the long slog down it can take many hours Aug 28, 2017