Sydpillaren (South Pillar)
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 13 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Håkan Bjerneld and Lars-Göran Johansson, 1972|
|Page Views:||1,303 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Liebling on Jul 31, 2014|
DescriptionA classic route well worth its reputation. From a distance it looks inaccessible from where the route twists its way up the large granite slabs on the pillar in the middle of the south wall, but a system of shelves allow approach to the base of the pillar and the start of the route. Two other large shelving systems, the First and the Second Amphi cross the further up.
Rockfax has published a free miniguide with excellent approach and descent information, as well as a topo:
The excellent guidebook is also fabulously beautiful and contains many other routes on Stetind and in the surrounding area.
Note: since the miniguide and the guidebook were published, rockfall has substantially altered pitch 8. Instead, we cimbed out left on zigzagging splitter hand cracks and a bit of face climbing (probably 5.9).