Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: K Giger, R Jäggi
Page Views: 1,709 total · 15/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Jul 30, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

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Description Suggest change

Ignoring the intro pitch to access the headwall, an extraordinary, steep alpine route from start to finish, linking a series of stellar and varied cracks in a very logical line.

Never a dull moment. Perfect rock from start to finish.

Grades go at 4c, 6c+, 6b+, 6a+, 6b, 6a+, 5b, 6b, 5c - although the pure crack pitches (pitches 2, 3 and 8) will probably seem soft for those who are proficient in jamming.

For a complete topo, refer to the filidor guidebook "Schweiz Extrem Ost".

Edit: as of August 28, 2021 this route has been extended by 4 pitches to reach the summit and join with the west ridge, allowing a walkoff: https://www.filidor.ch/download/pictures/63/q070orf7s4uifynnru77yqyo1ohv7l/saennetuntschi.pdf.. The rack required for the extension is cams 0.2-4, doubles from 2-3.

Location Suggest change

The climb begins at the north-facing base of the 3rd Feldschijen tower, about 20 minutes below the base of the pronounced west ridge.

There's nothing marking the start, but look for a pronounced recess / chimney feature. As of summer 2014 there was one colorful sling near the end of the chimney where the terrain begins to flatten out into a plateau underneath the headwall.

Descent is by abseil.

Protection Suggest change

Anchors are fully equipped (also for abseil), and the pitches typically have 2 or 3 bolts - all high quality material (rebolted in 2012).

Complementary gear placements abound. Guidebook recommends cams 1-4 double and a set of rocks. Unless you are cool to run it out a bit or backclean, it is particularly helpful to have several #2s.

Furthermore, we were not unhappy to have had a #5 to bury in the offwidth section of the crux pitch.

Photos

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