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Routes in Pianokrakken
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Applecake Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Grand Theft Otto T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lys Og Skygge. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pianohandler Lunds Rute T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tapir T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
| FA: | E. Webster, T. Solberg, T. Enevold, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 1,648 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 29, 2014 |
| Admins: | Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan |
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Description
Another great route on Piannocracken, and other rated top 50 in the guidebook.
Scramble up the slab below the massive arch of Soria Moria, and find a small crack and flake system that allows access, via a left-leaning line, onto the face above. Climb that (awkward 5.9, crafty gear) to just below the right hand edge of a large roof on the arete to the left of the right-leaning arch.
Proper gear and sling-work will allow for minimal drag, but if you goof, you may be forced to do this line in 2 pitches (as described in the guidebook). Split left and traverse out left under the big roof to come out around its left side. The optional belay is here, but is not a great arrangement - skip this if possible (we did) and continue climbing. Trend up and right, now climbing on the left side of the arete, always within reach of it to it's end, and then up one of two crack options to the bolt and chain anchor.
Scramble up the slab below the massive arch of Soria Moria, and find a small crack and flake system that allows access, via a left-leaning line, onto the face above. Climb that (awkward 5.9, crafty gear) to just below the right hand edge of a large roof on the arete to the left of the right-leaning arch.
Proper gear and sling-work will allow for minimal drag, but if you goof, you may be forced to do this line in 2 pitches (as described in the guidebook). Split left and traverse out left under the big roof to come out around its left side. The optional belay is here, but is not a great arrangement - skip this if possible (we did) and continue climbing. Trend up and right, now climbing on the left side of the arete, always within reach of it to it's end, and then up one of two crack options to the bolt and chain anchor.
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