PRINT: Rock Climb Just A Smidgen Harder, Golden

Just A Smidgen Harder

5.10b/c, Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.4 from 100 votes
FA: Greg Hand, Richard Burrows, PH, 7/29/2014
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > E Colfax

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.

Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM

Description

It's actually a lot harder.

The 1st pitch climbs the slanting roof above For the Children and is about 5.10b.

The 2nd pitch (10+) has a crux above the belay and one just before the anchors. Follow line of bolts on the left side of the final roof. Realize the 10b/c consensus rating is because many people only do the 1st pitch and rate it 10a. The 2nd pitch is harder. As someone indicated, they did it in 1 long pitch, but there will be tremendous rope drag at the top crux.

A 60m rope will make it to the ground on rappel. You probably cannot lower because of abrasion. Because of current river noise, you will not be able to hear the leader. This may change by season. Belaying from the midway anchors, you will not be able to see the leader. Have a plan in advance. The 1st pitch is very good on its own, and you can lower to the ground.

Location

This is the extension above For the Children.

Protection

1st pitch - 10 bolts to chains.
2nd pitch - 7 bolts to chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the crux on top rope.

At the 1st pitch anchors.

The bolt line above For the Children on the first pitch.

Beginning the crux of the 1st pitch of Just A Smidgen Harder.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JaniMichaels

5.10c/d

There definitely seemed to be three main cruxes on this climb. The first crux is on the first pitch and and isn't too difficult. The anchors above the first pitch were on rock that was really chossy. My climbing partner was pulling flakes of rock off about a foot away from the anchors, but I'm sure this will get cleaned with time. There is a crux right above the anchors. The last crux is a weird overhang at the top. My 5'10" climbing partner found a nice, hidden crimp hold in a crack for his left hand, I used a right hand jam to get high enough to grab it. Looked like there was an easy cheat to the far left of the bolts. Overall a fun climb that will be great once it's cleaned up. Our 70 meter rope was way overkill for this climb. Aug 4, 2014

Andy Bandos
CO

Be careful when cleaning. The rock is generally solid near the bolt line, but when the route traverses left on pitch 1 the rock to the right is really loose. If you kick off the wall to reach draws on the right to clean, you may knock something down on your belayer. It happened twice the last time I was at this crag. It's probably best to rap down to clean or have a second clean it as they TR. Nov 3, 2014

Matt Pierce
Poncha Springs, CO

We did an on-sight of this, since it isn't in the new guidebook, but we only did the first pitch. Really good movement, and there didn't seem to be a lot of loose rock. This route is hard to clean on rap, so I brought up my second, and we both rapped off. The description says it goes about .10b, but it really only felt like maybe .9+. Jul 30, 2015

Theodore Morrow
Golden, Co

Didn't know about the second pitch, will go back to climb it. The first pitch feels very easy, about 5.9/5.9+, and is very very well-protected on bolts. The bolts after the anchor of the 5.4 start are maybe 10' away on 5.4 climbing, just walk up to it... pretty fun roof, especially for new people that want to try something harder than an easy climb. Feb 18, 2016

Scott Chico
Morrison CO

What a gem of a climb! Loved the overhang crux even if I did slip off the first attempt. LOTS of chalk on holds, but many of the holds used to pull over the crux are at odd angles making it trickier than it first appears. My wife made it look easy on TR. Jun 26, 2019

Colleen McEnearney
Virginia

5.10b

Fun roof on the first pitch that felt solidly 10b. For climbers under 6 feet, look for high feet on some chalked up holds on the left of the roof. Super well-protected! Apr 5, 2021

Brandon Wampler
Austin, TX

5.10

Excellent route but disgusting rope drag when done in one pitch. Sep 2, 2023