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Routes in Pangaea

Breaking Up Is Hard To Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caveman Odyssey T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gondwanaland Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Land of the Lost Portal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ode to Sha're T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Plate Tectonics T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Primordial Lichen Soup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subduction Zone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Your Substrate Makes My Lava Flow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: FA: D. Stireman & A. Mollard, 7/2014 - FCA: K. Howes, 8/2014
Page Views: 634 total · 13/month
Shared By: Boissal on Jul 28, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Suggest Change]

Plate tectonics is a scientific theory which describes the large-scale motion of Earth's lithosphere, broken up into tectonic plates, under the influence of mantle dynamics, gravity, and Earth rotation.
On the Jungle level, it is a theory which describes the smaller-scale motion of Earth's lithosphere, broken up into choss plates, under the influence of gravity and a crowbar.

Begin this geologic adventure on top of a pedestal facing a crescent-shaped hairline crack. A series of intricate moves relying on finger locks, tiny edges and creative stems will get you off the deck and past the first bolt. The crack pinches out after a few more funky moves, forcing you up and left onto a thin face protected by two more bolts.
Catch a welcome rest in the alcove which caps this section then tackle the thin dihedral above, heading toward a jagged triangular roof. A few thuggy moves will see you through this feature, leaving you a the base of a perfect dihedral crack. Get your liebacking hat on and embark on a pumpy cruise up this ever steepening feature. If you can handle the sharp jams (no tape, the crack never opens to solid hand size), disappearing feet (stemming is cheating) and melting forearms, the anchors await after a final mantle on top of a small triangular pillar.

Note: the plate tectonics theory was found to accurately represent what we found in the 20' section under the roof. Several 100+ lbs plates and blocks drifted from the wall with very little help. The thin unprotectable dihedral capped with a house-of-cards-style roof cleaned up amazingly well, yielding jugs, solid placements, and barely enough looseness to remind you that you're in the Jungle.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route tackles the gut of the Celestial Keep, the tallest buttress in Pangea, a free standing beast immediately left of the Star Gate Tower and the Time Portal.
It is about 200' right if the red clay spot described in Pangea directions.
A picture of the tower from the approach can be seen here

Protection [Suggest Change]

Three bolts in the lower section.
A rack of small/medium nuts and cams from the tiniest sizes to #3 (BD). Doubles from .5 to #1 (triples handy if you want to sew it up or hate liebacking).
The grey and purple C3s are mandatory for the start (double up on these sizes if you don't trust aid gear) and a yellow mastercam will save you endless frustration.
A few runner come in handy if you place gear below the roof.

I plan on getting back up there soon to update the anchor (cordelette through bolts + 2 old biners) with chain and quicklinks. If you get there before me, the cord is fresh as of 07/2014.

Photos

For those of you who are not familiar with route setting or with Alexis and Drew let me give you just a hint of both. This is an intimidating line that was done from the ground up and took many, many hours of, climbing, bolting, and cleaning. Alexies and Drew are not your "early start" guys and after a long afternoon/evening of crag work would drag themselves in to the promised campfire complete with the prerequisite spirits around 10:30 pm for two nights in a row. When I was questioned about their tactics all I could and can say is that they are ANIMALS! Well done guys! Thanks for all that hard work Jul 29, 2014
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11-
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11-
Actually it didn't go ground up, but not for lack of trying! I just couldn't pull the roof, too many large detached blocks and too many questionable micro stoppers in a row. The size of the stuff I yanked out of the roof and lower dihedral still freaks me out. The downclimb and traverse to Lichen Soup is forever banned from my memory. As usual though, each loose block claimed by gravity yields a hand hold and a solid placement. No more nests of mini nuts in bad rock! Jul 29, 2014
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11-
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11-
I left 2 pieces of chain + quicklinks at the base of the route, left of the thin crack start under a small roof. I only had time to update the anchor on Lichen Soup, it got too hot for this one. If you do the route do yourself a favor and bring the chains up, it will save you from having to rap on the old cord which is completely fried and not super inspiring. Bring a knife. Beer on me if you send me pics of the refreshed anchor! 6 days ago

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