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White Line

5.8, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.2 from 34 votes
FA: unknown
Montana > Southwest Region > Butte Area > Spire Rock > King (W Face)

Description

This line climbs the lower face and then up the prominent hand/finger crack in the middle of the wall.

P1: Climb the large, low angle right-facing dihedral with a large tree in it. Head left above the dihedral towards the base of the crack. (5.7)

Alternatively, climb P1 of Aerial Book.

P2: Enjoy the easier-than-it-looks hand/finger splitter to a bolted anchor at the top of the wall.

Descent: 2 Rappels. Midway chains are down and rappeler's right.

Location

Right in the middle of the face.

Protection

Gear to 3", emphasis on wide fingers/hands.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Alternative linkup: P1 Aerial Book into P2 White Line.
[Hide Photo] Alternative linkup: P1 Aerial Book into P2 White Line.
Official White Line topo.  Pitch one is a lot cleaner and more fun that it looks. Micro cams very helpful! Though most people likely do P1 of Aerial Book to the left. There used to be old rusty chains about where the red arrow/circle are. Don't use those!
[Hide Photo] Official White Line topo. Pitch one is a lot cleaner and more fun that it looks. Micro cams very helpful! Though most people likely do P1 of Aerial Book to the left. There used to be old rusty cha…
The flake behind me is new as of fall 2021. Part of a major rockfall event.
[Hide Photo] The flake behind me is new as of fall 2021. Part of a major rockfall event.
Rockfall in fall 2021. The flake hanging over the edge up top is new.
[Hide Photo] Rockfall in fall 2021. The flake hanging over the edge up top is new.
Pitch 1 follows the right facing corner all the way up then traverse left across a grassy ledge.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1 follows the right facing corner all the way up then traverse left across a grassy ledge.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
[Hide Comment] The second pitch is one of the best 5.8 cracks in Montana. Dec 11, 2014
Matt Wenger
Bozeman
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I second Bryan Gartland. This crack is one of the most memorable I have ever climbed. Bring small cams for pitch 1. May 11, 2017
Andrew Deliduka
Leavenworth, WA
 
[Hide Comment] 1st pitch is kind of squirrelly. Gear is not great/obvious. 2nd pitch was stellar, hollow flakes just added to the excitement and adventure. Agree with small cams/stoppers for 1st pitch and .75" and 1" cams for 2nd. Aug 28, 2020
Jeff Krissek
Havre, MT
[Hide Comment] Can be done as a single pitch but is definitely two raps Dec 3, 2020