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Routes in 16 - L'Hippocampe

L'arête des Urubus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: TBA
Page Views: 86 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jfaub on Jul 28, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

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Description

P1 : Execute a delicate entry move to gain a ramp/dihedral feature. Continue up the dihedral, which steepens. Jam, stem, and layback up to a wide finish, and an exciting topout onto a very, very fat 'party ledge'. Belay at two Glue-in bolts. A good pitch in it's own right. (~20m, 5.7)

P2 : The money pitch. From the 'party ledge' step left into the void on small holds, and immediately feel the exposure. A hard move off the belay leads to an exciting clip. More insecure climbing leads to the arete proper. Continue up the arete, using both sides of it (cool!), clipping more bolts and delicately dealing with technical friction moves. Eventually you reach the culmination of the arete and a nice 2 person ledge. Look around and savour the view from this amazing perch. Belay at a fixed anchor with chains. Absolutely, positively classic. Exposed!!!! (~30m, 5.10b)

Rap the route.

Location

To locate the first pitch, look for an obvious dihedral with a wide crack near the top.

Protection

Standard rack for the first pitch. 8-10 quickdraws for the second pitch. Bolted anchors.

Photos

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Yann Camus  
 
Love it! Mar 17, 2018

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